Globe and Mail top 10 pet stories

10 TALES FROM THE WILD SIDE (AND ONE FROM THE FUTURE)
The humble beagle won big, human weirdness trumped veterinary advances and cuteness reigned supreme in 2008. Pets deserve year-end lists just like everyone else, so here are the topten animal stories of the year, followed by a not-so-psychic prediction for the biggest pet story of 2009. Rebecca Dube reports
REBECCA DUBE
December 30, 2008
ECONOMY GOES TO THE DOGS, DOGS ... GO SHOPPING?
What happened The economy tanked.
What it means For pets, not much - at first. The pet supply industry proved surprisingly resilient in a weak economy. Who would have thought that gourmet dog biscuits and rhinestone kitty collars were recession-proof? Unfortunately, when things go from bad to worse, pets do suffer. In U.S. counties that have been hard hit by home foreclosures, animal shelters are being overwhelmed with abandoned pets.
HAVE NO FEAR, UNDERDOG IS HERE

What happened A lively 38-centimetre beagle named Uno bayed his way into the hearts of millions when he became the first beagle to win the prestigious Westminster Kennel Club Dog Show.
What it means Score one for Snoopy! Uno's victory over more rarefied breeds sparked unprecedented interest in the Westminster show as the general public cheered to see a "real dog" chosen as champion. Who will the Westminster judges pick to follow this act in February, when they choose a new best in show? A Labrador retriever would be a great people's choice, but no doubt poodles are out for
revenge.
THE CURIOUS CASE OF THE CLONES AND THE KIDNAPPER
What happened South Korean scientists successfully complete the first commercial cloning of a dog, a dead pit bull named Booger.
What it means Truth is definitely stranger than fiction. After photos of Booger's clones' proud owner, Joyce Bernann McKinney, circulated worldwide, she was quickly outed as the same woman who, 31 years earlier, was accused of kidnapping a Mormon missionary in England, handcuffing him to a bed in a Devon cottage and forcing him to have sex with her.
She skipped bail back then and fled from justice, only to resurface for the love of Booger.
OH, THE HUMANITY ... OF DOGS
What happened Scientists demonstrate that dogs feel empathy (through contagious yawns) and envy (they get sulky when other dogs are rewarded for tricks and they are not).
What it means Not much to dog owners, who don't need much persuading that dogs feel and express a full range of complex emotions. The research is pretty interesting, though, in context of the rapidly diminishing list of traits that were previously believed to exist only in primates (tool making, language etc.). We're just not as special as we like to think. Research on animal emotions may also lead to breakthroughs in our understanding of human emotions and conditions such as autism.
DROP THE LEASH, ROMEO
What happened The Saudi Arabian capital of Riyadh banned the selling of dogs and cats, as well as walking them in public.
What it means The Saudi religious police finally cottoned on to what single people have known for years - puppy equals babe magnet. In the interest of preserving separation between the sexes, they instituted the ban, which is enforced by agents of the Committee for the Promotion of Virtue and the Prevention of Vice. Similar bans in the cities of Mecca and Jiddah have failed to curb pet buying and walking (and presumably the associated "ooh, what a cute puppy!" flirting).
My babies may look funny, but I love 'em
What happened Interspecies mothering was all the rage this year, with a golden retriever nursing white tiger cubs, a tabby cat nursing baby red pandas, and a pig nursing tigers.
What it means Lots of photos of cute interspecies snorgling, and proof that maternal instincts can trump biological ties (and perhaps common sense - my, what big teeth your babies have). And apparently tigers are the deadbeat mothers of the animal kingdom.
WE'RE NOT HAPPY UNTIL YOUR DOG'S NOT HAPPY
What happened A federal agency overturned Air Canada's ban on pets as checked baggage.
What it means In 2007, Air Canada banned pets as checked baggage, forcing customers travelling with pets to ship them as cargo. Then this spring, the Canadian Transportation Agency overturned the ban, saying the rule was "giving advantages to the carrier while exposing pet owners to many significant disadvantages." Air Canada is appealing that ruling in federal court, and expects a court date in the new year. In the meantime, pets can still travel in the luggage compartment except during certain summer and holiday blackout dates.
FACING THE FUTURE
What happened A veterinarian in Boston reattaches a cat's face after it cuddled up to a car's fan belt.
What it means Only eight more lives to go for Edgar, the four-year-old female cat, who is recovering quite well from her face-reattachment surgery. And her owners may want to look into pet insurance.
KILLER KIBBLES
What happened A U.S. judge approved a $24-million (U.S.) settlement for the Canadian and U.S. owners of cats and dogs who were sickened or died from eating pet food tainted with melamine, a chemical used to make plastics.
What it means Pet owners start scrutinizing the labels on their animals' food, and the once-oxymoronic notion of gourmet and organic pet chow moves into the mainstream. The settlement compensates owners for veterinary costs, but doesn't pay "pain and suffering" damages.
CUTE OVERLOAD
What happened Lots of cute stuff. A pig who refused to walk in the mud without boots made headlines, the Shiba Inu puppy cam racked up 13 million views, and the CuteOverload.com calendar shot to the top of Amazon's bestseller list.
What it means When it comes to finding ways to waste time at work, people's love of soft, furry and cuddly things knows no bounds. Words such as "smooshable" and "prosh" enter the lexicon. Meanwhile, Playboy Enterprises Inc. is laying off staff as its stock price suffers. Forget sex: Cute sells.
And the top pet story of 2009:
BARACK OBAMA AND HIS FAMILY CHOOSE A DOG
Will it be a so-called "designer dog," such as the hypoallergenic goldendoodle (a golden retriever-poodle mix) that his allergy-prone daughter favours, or a more image-friendly mutt from the pound? At the very least, Mr. Obama should be able to avoid the missteps of his gaffe-magnet vice president-elect Joe Biden, who purchased a German shepherd puppy from a Pennsylvania dog breeder whose kennel, it turned out, had been cited for multiple violations. With animal rescue groups across the country ready to shiv each other for the chance to supply a presidential pup, my money's on the Obamas finding a goldendoodle to adopt from a pound or rescue group. Cute and ethical - isn't that the Obama way?

Dog treats, cat treats...... what is best?

So I was chatting with a woman in the store today who was wanting a "chew toy" for her Portugese water dog. I suggested, as I usually do, that while there is no such thing as a "chew toy" but rather toys that can be chewed on and then removed if they are being destroyed and then I went on to extole the benefits of the "bully sticks' we carry.
Now bully sticks are plain and simple a good, natural beef chew stick that will take most dogs a good long time to get through. They are tough and made to be be ingested without harm to the animal as they can only get small pieces of the bone/stick off at a time.......and the item is made of penis.
Yup....good 'ol penis, weiner, dick, all from a bull .."is this from a cow??"...."no cows don't have penises"...........I have that exchange at least three times a week.
I don't sell pigs ears or rawhide because they are usually too large and the dog can soften up a large enough piece then swallow it.....which then swells up and cannot pass. Owie!
Bully sticks don't do this for the most part. They also last for 99.999% of dogs at least a few hours.
Unfortunately....the lady who purchased the 10'' bully stick (no jokes please) for her dog was surprised that he went through it in 15 minutes and was more than happy to call me with that feedback. The feedback I Do appreciate actually because it reminds me in my shpiel of careful instruction for safety and what I believe (as a salesperson, store owner and dog trainer) to be a good product to ask "what do you think your dog will take to finish this off?"This immediately takes the onus off of me to being a psychic and knowing the traits and habits of a dog I have never seen before.
Mainly.....because HELLO!!!!...I don't know YOUR dog but I do know the many thousands of dogs that come through the store and training courses and those dogs that I have owned.
I can only give what I believe to be good advice.
I know Pitbulls that take days to finish a bully stick and a Jack Russell only a couple of hours.
15 minutes as she described is pretty darn fast and very unusual but not impossible.
The point I guess is to know your own pet and combine the advice on a product with what habits your pet has.
The final point that sticks out in my mind is that while super polite I felt she was put off that the bully stick which is NOT inexpensive at $8.98 did last 15 minutes and I dare ask what if ever in the past while she had purchased as a consumable lasted HER as long as 15 minutes. Not a 5 buck latte and muffin.....not a fast food experience.....and frankly...I bet the dog freakin enjoyed it so quit complain' girlfriend! I am super happy though to offer that same lady a great selection of our organic treats on the house free of charge. Now these we know he will scarf down but value is value and I like to give it as best as I can. With our huge clientelle we like to make sure they are taken care of as well as their pets. So c'mon by girl and have a snack for the pooch.
This also goes for any dog who comes to visit us. There is always a free treat for visiting dogs while in the store.
chomp!........WOOF!

Christmas for dogs and cats.

Yay!! Its getting close to the festive season and the store here is packed...and I mean PACKED with everything that you would want to buy a dog or cat for Christmas.
I have noticed the trend in the last while to buy Christmas presents for people's pets in lieu of bringing a hostess gift or the traditional bottle of something whilst visiting.
I think for a variety of reasons this is a good thing.....well....mainly because I own a pet boutique...lets be real about that one but also because we all have so much stuff ourselves anyway.
Pets don't ask, "did you keep the receipt?"
Pets will usually like the shape, colour, or texture of most treats and toys.
People get a wee bit squishy and warm when you remember their animals.....especially if'n they did not themselves.
Pets will always remember the guy who brought over cool stuff but not expect it...unlike most kids.
Pets don't adhere to the rule that if they get something they have to give one back in what is usually an awkward exchange of phony altruism.
Most times...gifts for pets arte waaaaaaay cheaper than toys of presents for people.
ahhhhhhhhh the season it is...it just warms my heart.
.....just sayin'.......WOOF!!

Dog treats, biscuits, cookies, it should be all good whatever you call them.

So I know that my store is well known for its "in house" made treats (unlike some other dog bakeries that just heat up already made formulas) and that there is a dedicated following to the treats made right here but I can't help but wonder what people have been feeding Fido over the past few years.
A gentleman walked into the store, looked at the fresh baked items and said recently "wow, dogs eat better cookies than I do".
I didn't take him to task on the issue too much as what he probably meant was "oh dogs now eat good food that is not filled with crap".
I try to do as much research as possible into food ingredients and as a cosmetic manufacturer in my other job I am privy to certain info that others may not be..and know the difference between what is ok to consume and what is touted as a "chemical" or a "preservative" which seem to be the buzz words of ill informed writers and "cause heads" who make like Chicken Little with regard to ingredients.
I try to remind people that everything is a chemical and a preservative most used in food is Tocopherals.....which is Vitamin E.
Without preservatives we would be dead by now from the history of how long we keep things around.............just how old IS that salad dressing or mustard in the fridge?!?!?
I came across a really good excerpt from a book recently that talks to the ingredients of dog food.
Now most people will no longer import food from China for animals and it looks like less is being imported for people especially with milk products in the item.
Here is the rub people...what makes you think that someone in another country like China is looking out for your well being and is adhering to the same standards as manufacturers here in this country or the US???
What makes you think that dog food or cat food is made with the same standards as human food?
There is an interesting dichotomy in that when I snack on a biscuit here in my store that is made with 100% organic ingredients, free range eggs, extra virgin olive oil, lamb, roasted chicken, peanut-butter, etc people are often quick to make a joke of it. "Ewwww..dog biscuits."
"What do you think I put in my treats?" I will respond.
More to that end..."what do you think is in YOUR dog's treats" is the subtext..and "why are you surprised when your dog has constant diarreha"?

The following is the excerpt from the book,
"Food Pets Die For: Shocking Facts About Pet Food." By Ann N. Martin. NewSage Press (1997).
I have placed my two cents in italics and bold type where I thought it necessary.
Television commercials and magazine advertisements for pet food would have us believe that the meats, grains, and fats used in these foods could grace our dining tables. Chicken, beef, lamb, whole grains, and quality fats are supposedly the composition of dog and cat food.
In my opinion, when we purchase these bags and cans of commercial food, we are in most cases purchasing garbage. Not so much these days as manufacturers have really stepped up their game...though I still agree with addition of vegetables and other things to keep the flora balanced in the gut.
Unequivocally, I cannot state that all pet food falls into this category, but I have yet to find one that I could, in all good conscience, feed my dog or cats.
Pet food labels can be deceiving. They only provide half the story. The other half of the story is hidden behind obscure ingredients listed on the labels. Bit by bit, over seven years, I have been able to unearth information about what is contained in most commercial pet food. At first I was shocked, but my shock turned to anger when I realized how little the consumer is told about the actual contents of the pet food. Yup..too true.
As discussed in Chapter Two, companion animals from clinics, pounds, and shelters can and are being rendered and used as sources of protein in pet food. Dead-stock removal operations play a major role in the pet food industry. Dead animals, road kill that cannot be buried at roadside, and in some cases, zoo animals, are picked up by these dead stock operations. I have not heard this to be true here in Canada as it just does not compute to be cost effective.
When an animal dies in the field or is killed due to illness or disability, the dead stock operators pick them up and truck them to the receiving plant. There the dead animal is salvaged for meat or, depending on the state of decomposition, delivered to a rendering plant. At the receiving plants, the animals of value are skinned and viscera removed. Hides of cattle and calves are sold for tanning. Dead animals are strictly forbidden to be rendered at least here in Canada and most plants would outright refuse.The usable meat is removed from the carcass, and covered in charcoal to prevent it from being used for human consumption. Then the meat is frozen, and sold as animal food, which includes pet food.
The packages of this frozen meat must be clearly marked as "unfit for human consumption." The rest of the carcass and poorer quality products including viscera, fat, etcetera, are sent to the rendering facilities. Rendering plants are melting pots for all types of refuse. Restaurant grease and garbage; meats and baked goods long past the expiration dates from supermarkets (Styrofoam trays and shrink-wrap included); the entrails from dead stock removal operations, and the condemned and contaminated material from slaughterhouses. All of these are rendered.
The slaughterhouses where cattle, pigs, goats, calves, sheep, poultry, and rabbits meet their fate, provide more fuel for rendering. After slaughter, heads, feet, skin, toenails, hair, feathers, carpal and tarsal joints, and mammary glands are removed. This material is sent to rendering. Animals who have died on their way to slaughter are rendered. Cancerous tissue or tumors and worm-infested organs are rendered. Injection sites, blood clots, bone splinters, or extraneous matter are rendered. Contaminated blood is rendered. Stomach and bowels are rendered. Contaminated material containing or having been treated with a substance not permitted by, or in any amount in excess of limits prescribed under the Food and Drug Act or the Environmental Protection Act. In other words, if a carcass contains high levels of drugs or pesticides this material is rendered. Before rendering, this material from the slaughterhouse is "denatured," which means that the material from the slaughterhouse is covered with a particular substance to prevent it from getting back into the human food chain. In the United States the substances used for denaturing include: crude carbolic acid, fuel oil, or citronella. In Canada the denaturing agent is Birkolene B. When I asked, the Ministry of Agriculture would not divulge the composition of Birkolene B, stating its ingredients are a trade secret.
At the rendering plant, slaughterhouse material, restaurant and supermarket refuse, dead stock, road kill, and euthanized companion animals are dumped into huge containers. A machine slowly grinds the entire mess. After it is chipped or shredded, it is cooked at temperatures of between 220 degrees F. and 270 degrees F. (104.4 to 132.2 degrees C.) for twenty minutes to one hour. The grease or tallow rises to the top, where it is removed from the mixture. This is the source of animal fat in most pet foods. The remaining material, the raw, is then put into a press where the moisture is squeezed out. We now have meat and bone meal.
The Association of American Feed Control Officials in its "Ingredient Definitions," describe meat meal as the rendered product from mammal tissue exclusive of blood, hair, hoof, hide, trimmings, manure, stomach, and rumen (the first stomach or the cud of a cud chewing animal) contents except in such amounts as may occur unavoidably in good processing practices. In an article written by David C. Cooke, "Animal Disposal: Fact and Fiction," Cooke noted, "Can you imagine trying to remove the hair and stomach contents from 600,000 tons of dog and cats prior to cooking them?" It would seem that either the Association of American Feed Control Officials definition of meat meal or meat and bone meal should be redefined or it needs to include a better description of "good factory practices."
When 4-D animals are picked up and sent to these rendering facilities, you can be assured that the stomach contents are not removed. The blood is not drained nor are the horns and hooves removed. The only portion of the animal that might be removed is the hide and any meat that may be salvageable and not too diseased to be sold as raw pet food or livestock feed. The Minister of Agriculture in Quebec made it clear that companion animals are rendered completely.
Pet Food Industry magazine states that a pet food manufacturer might reject rendered material for various reasons, including the presence of foreign material (metals, hair, plastic, rubber, glass), off odor, excessive feathers, hair or hog bristles, bone chunks, mold, chemical analysis out of specification, added blood, leather, or calcium carbonate, heavy metals, pesticide contamination, improper grind or bulk density, and insect infestation.
Please note that this article states that the manufacturer might reject this material, not that it does reject this material.
If the label on the pet food you purchase states that the product contains meat meal, or meat and bone meal, it is possible that it is comprised of all the materials listed above.
Meat, as defined by the Association of American Feed Control Officials (AAFCO), is the clean flesh derived from slaughtered mammals and is limited to that part of the striate muscle that is skeletal or that which is found in the tongue, diaphragm, heart, or esophagus; with or without the accompanying and overlying fat and the portions of the skin, sinew, nerve, and blood vessels that normally accompany the flesh. When you read on a pet food label that the product contains "real meat," you are getting blood vessels, sinew and so on-hardly the tasty meat that the industry would have us believe it is putting in the food.
Meat by-products are the non rendered, clean parts other than meat derived from slaughtered mammals. It includes, but is not limited to, lungs, spleen, kidneys, brain, livers, blood, bone, partially defatted low temperature fatty tissue, and stomachs and intestines freed of their contents. Again, be assured that if it could be used for human consumption, such as kidneys and livers, it would not be going into pet food. If a liver is found to be infested with worms (liver flukes), if lungs are filled with pneumonia, these can become pet food. However, in Canada, disease-free intestines can still be used for sausage casing for humans instead of pet food.
What about other sources of protein that can be used in pet food? Poultry-by-product meal consists of ground, rendered, clean parts of the carcasses of slaughtered poultry, such as necks, feet, undeveloped eggs, and intestines, exclusive of feathers, except in such amounts as might occur unavoidably in good processing practice.
Poultry-hatchery by-products are a mixture of egg shells, infertile and unhatched eggs and culled chicks that have been cooked, dried and ground, with or without removal of part of the fat.
Poultry by-products include non rendered clean parts of carcasses of slaughtered poultry such as heads, feet, and viscera, free of fecal content and foreign matter except in such trace amounts as might occur unavoidably in good factory practice. These are all definitions as listed in the AAFCO "Ingredient Definitions."
Hydrolyzed poultry feather is another source of protein - not digestible protein, but protein nonetheless. This product results from the treatment under pressure of clean, intact feathers from slaughtered poultry free of additives, and/or accelerators.
We have covered the meat and poultry that can be used in commercial pet foods but according to the AAFCO there are a number of other sources that can make up the protein in these foods. As we venture down the road of these other sources, please be advised to proceed at your own risk if you have a weak stomach.
Hydrolysed hair is a product prepared from clean hair treated by heat and pressure to produce a product suitable for animal feeding.
Spray-dried animal blood is produced from clean, fresh animal blood, exclusive of all extraneous material such as hair, stomach belching (contents of stomach), and urine, except in such traces as might occur unavoidably in good factory practices.
Dehydrated food-waste is any and all animal and vegetable produce picked up from basic food processing sources or institutions where food is processed. The produce shall be picked up daily or sufficiently often so that no decomposition is evident. With this ingredient, it seems that what you don't see won't hurt you.
Dehydrated garbage is composed of artificially dried animal and vegetable waste collected sufficiently often that harmful decomposition has not set in and from which have been separated crockery, glass, metal, string, and similar materials.
Dehydrated paunch products are composed of the contents of the rumen of slaughtered cattle, dehydrated at temperatures over 212 degrees F. (100 degrees C.) to a moisture content of 12 percent or less, such dehydration is designed to destroy any pathogenic bacteria.
Dried poultry waste is a processed animal waste product composed primarily of processed ruminant excreta that has been artificially dehydrated to a moisture content not in excess of 15 percent. It shall contain not less than 12 percent crude protein, not more than 40 percent crude fiber, including straw, wood shavings and so on, and not more than 30 percent ash.
Dried swine waste is a processed animal-waste product composed primarily of swine excreta that has been artificially dehydrated to a moisture content not in excess of 15 percent. It shall contain not less than 20 percent crude protein, not more than 35 percent crude fiber, including other material such as straw, woodshavings, or acceptable bedding materials, and not more than 20 percent ash.
Undried processed animal waste product is composed of excreta, with or without the litter, from poultry, ruminants, or any other animal except humans, which may or may not include other feed ingredients, and which contains in excess of 15 percent feed ingredients, and which contains in excess of 15 percent moisture. It shall contain no more than 30 percent combined wood, woodshavings, litter, dirt, sand, rocks, and similar extraneous materials.
After reading this list of ingredients for the first time and not really believing that such ingredients could be used in pet food, I sent a fax to the chair of the AAFCO to inquire. "Would the 'Feed Ingredient Definitions' apply to pet food as well as livestock feed?" The reply was as follows, "The feed ingredient definitions approved by the AAFCO apply to all animal feeds, including pet foods, unless specific animal species restrictions are noted."
If a pet food lists "meat by-products" on the label, remember that this is the material that usually comes from the slaughterhouse industry or dead stock removal operations, classified as condemned or contaminated, unfit for human consumption. Meat meal, meat and bone meal, digests, and tankage (specifically animal tissue including bones and exclusive of hair, hoofs, horns, and contents of digestive tract) are composed of rendered material. The label need not state what the composition of this material is, as each batch rendered would consist of a different material. These are the sources of protein that we are feeding our companion animals.
In 1996 I decided to find out the cost of this "quality" material that the pet food companies purchase from the rendering facilities. Aware that a phone call from an ordinary citizen would not elicit the information I required, I set about forming my own independent pet food company. Stating that my company was about to begin producing quality pet food, I asked for a price quote on meat by-products and meat meal from a Canadian rendering company and from a U.S. rendering company. Both facilities I contacted were more than pleased to provide this information. As I was just a small company and did not require that much material to begin production, the cost was higher than it would have been for one of the large multinationals. Meat and bone meal, with a content of a minimum of 50 percent protein, 12 percent fat, 8 percent moisture, 8 percent calcium, 4 percent phosphorus, and 30 percent ash, could be purchased by me, a small independent company for less than 12¢ (Canadian) a pound. As for the meat by-products the prices varied:. liver sold at 21¢ per pound, veal at 22¢ per pound, and lungs for only 12¢ per pound.
The main ingredient in dry food for dogs and cats is corn. However, on further investigation, I found that according to the AAFCO, the list is lengthy as to the corn products that can be used in pet food. These include, but are not limited to the following ingredients.
Corn four is the fine-size hard flinty portions of ground corn containing little or none of the bran or germ.
Corn bran is the outer coating of the corn kernel, with little or none of the starchy part of the germ.
Corn gluten meal is the dried residue from corn after the removal of the larger part of the starch and germ, and the separation of the bran by the process employed in the wet milling manufacture of corn starch or syrup, or by enzymatic treatment of the endosperm.
Wheat is a constituent found in many pet foods. Again the AAFCO gives descriptive terms for wheat products.
Wheat flour consists principally of wheat flour together with fine particles of wheat bran, wheat germ, and the offal from the "tail of the mill." Tail of the mill is nothing more then the sweepings of leftovers after everything has been processed from the week.
Wheat germ meal consists chiefly of wheat germ together with some bran and middlings or shorts.
Wheat middlings and shorts are also categorized as the fine particles of wheat germ, bran, flour and offal from the "tail of the mill."
Both corn and wheat are usually the first ingredients listed on both dry dog and cat food labels. If they are not the first ingredients, they are the second and third that together make up most of the sources of protein in that particular product. Perhaps the pet food industry is not aware that cats are carnivores and therefore should derive their protein from meat, not grains?
In 1995 one large pet food company, located in California, recalled $20 million worth of its dog food. This food was found to contain vomitoxin. Vomitoxin is formed when grains become wet and moldy. This toxin was found in "wheat screenings" used in the pet food. The FDA did investigate but not out of concern for the more than 250 dogs that became ill after ingesting this food. It investigated because of concerns for human health. The contaminated wheat screenings were the end product of wheat flour that would be used in the making of pasta. Wheat for baking flour requires a higher quality of wheat. Wheat screenings, which are not used for human consumption, can include broken grains, crop and weed seeds, hulls, chaff, joints, straw, elevator or mill dust, sand, and dirt.
Fat is usually the second ingredient listed on the pet food labels. Fats can be sprayed directly on the food or mixed with the other ingredients. Fats give off a pungent odor that entices your pet to eat the garbage. These fats are sourced from restaurant grease. This oil is rancid and unfit for human consumption. One of the main sources of fat comes from the rendering plant. This is obtained from the tissues of mammals and/or poultry in the commercial process of rendering or extracting.
An article in Petted Industry magazine does not indicate concern about the impurities in this rendered material as it relates to pet food. Dr. Tim Phillips writes, "Impurities could be small particles of fiber, hair, hide, bone, soil or polyethylene. Or they could be dirt or metal particles picked up after processing (during storage and/or transport). Impurities can cause clogging problems in fat handling screens, nozzles, etc. and contribute to the build-up of sludge in storage tanks."
Other tasty ingredients that can be added to commercial pet food include:
Beet pulp is the dried residue from sugar beet, added for fiber, but primarily sugar.
Soybean meal is the product obtained by grinding the flakes that remain after the removal of most of the oil from soybeans by a solvent extraction process.
Powdered cellulose is purified, mechanically disintegrated cellulose prepared by processing alpha cellulose obtained as a pulp from fibrous plant material. In other words, sawdust.
Sugar foods by-products result from the grinding and mixing of inedible portions derived from the preparation and packaging of sugar-based food products such as candy, dry packaged drinks, dried gelatin mixes, and similar food products that are largely composed of sugar.
Ground almond and peanut shells are used as another source of fiber.
Fish is a source of protein. If you own a cat, just open a can of food that contains fish and watch kitty come running. The parts used are fish heads, tails, fins, bones, and viscera. R.L. Wysong, DVM, states that because the entire fish is not used it does not contain many of the fat soluble vitamins, minerals, and omega-3 fatty acids. If, however, the entire fish is used for pet food, oftentimes it is because the fish contains a high level of mercury or other toxin making it unfit for human consumption. Even fish that was canned for human consumption and that has sat on the shelf past the expiration date will be included. Tuna is used in many cat foods because of its strong odor, which cats find irresistible.
In her book The Natural Cat, Anitra Frazier describes the "tuna junkie" as an expression used by veterinarians to describe a cat hooked on tuna. According to Frazier, "The vegetable oil which it is packed in robs the cat's body of vitamin E which can result in a condition called steatitis.'' Symptoms of steatitis include extreme nervousness and severe pain when touched. The lack of vitamin E in the diet causes the nerve endings to become sensitive, and can also induce anemia and heart disease. However, excess levels of vitamin E can be toxic. A veterinarian with an understanding of nutrition should be consulted.
One commercial food that most cats and dogs seem to love are the semi-moist foods. These kibble and burger-shaped concoctions are made to resemble real hamburger. However, according to Wendell O. Belfield and Martin Zucker in their book, How to Have a Healthier Dog, these are one of the most dangerous of all commercial pet foods. They are high in sugar, laced with dyes, additives, and preservatives, and have a shelf life that spans eternity. One pet owner wrote to me explaining that she had fed her cat some of these semi-moist tidbits. The cat became ill shortly after eating them, and even professional carpet cleaners could not remove the red dye from the carpet where her cat had been ill. In his book, Pet Allergies: Remedies for an Epidemic, Alfred Plechner, DVM., writes, "In my opinion, semi-moist foods should be placed in a time capsule to serve as a record of modern technology gone mad." They really are just flavoured playdough.
The pet food industry corrals this material, then mixes, cooks, dries and extrudes the stuff. (Extruding simply means it is pushed through a mold to form the different shapes and to make us think that these so called "chunks" are actually pieces of meat.) Dyes, additives, preservatives are routinely added and they can accumulate in the pet's body. According to the Animal Protection Institute of America newsletter, "Investigative Report on Pet Food, "Ethoxyquin (an antioxidant preservative), was found in dogs' livers and tissue months after it had been removed from their diet."
After processing, the food is practically devoid of any nutritional value. To make up for what is lacking, vitamins, minerals, amino acids, and supplements are dumped into the mix. If the minerals added are unchelated (chelated means minerals will more readily combine with proteins for better absorption), they will pass through the body virtually unused. Most are added as a premix, and if there is a mistake made in the premix, it can throw off the entire balance. Veterinarians Marty Goldstein and Robert Goldstein have stated that the wrong calcium/magnesium ratio can cause neuromuscular problems. As an example, when I had the commercial pet food tested by Mann Laboratories for my court case, most of the minerals showed excess levels.
Well there ya go...some interesting facts on pet food and what it is made up of. The upshot is that as informed consumers you can read the labels and pick what you need for your pet. Recently a friend with a new puppy said "by-products are not too bad..are they?" wellllll here is your answer my friend in the best way I can see to impart that info. For a variety of reasons we make really good treats here...and I think I will ask people to read this blog whenever they ask why the dog treats seem sooo darn good.
Just sayin'.........woof!

President Elect Obama's new dog.

So the USA has a new President in Obama...wonderful!!!
The interesting thing has been the overwhelming response from almost every blogger, infotainment program, newspaper, and anyone else with a minute on their hand weighing in on what KIND of dog is best for the Obama family.
Heck...some countries are even offering their own breeds (for free, Brazil) in the interest of good national relations.
I can't help but wonder a few things...One is that pop culture has now taken over as mainstream news in such a juggernaught of flashing lights and hoopla that we are distracted from other things that are really important.......when the Obama pet takes first queue in a news lineup over what is happening overseas during an earthquake and possible death toll in a collapsed school roof it is more than troubling.
Secondly.....the energy and interest for what will definitely be the "first dog" to the citizens of the US shows what little interest most people have for issues of the day and what can only be described as the fascination and adherance to the closest thing we have to royalty in the Americas. Whom do we admire? Politicians? Celebrities? The famous..the infamous?
Thirdly...although we have been barraged with what Britney and Paris are doing ad nauseum........and can I just gag on a simple oxygen intake everytime I see something on TV that broadcasts what little Dannielynn is eating now that her Mommy Anna Nicole Smith is gone I wonder just how much the "paps' will make on the first pics of said "first dog"........when did a dog get more important than people who move in and around it?!??!?
The only thing I can hope is that the two girls actually learn to be responsible with the animal and do all the necessary chores required....from what I hear about Michelle Obama I think that will probably be the case...she seems to be in touch reality.
Just sayin'..................woof!

Dog harnesses the pros and cons.

Dog harnesses...why do people use them with their pets?
Harnesses, of course, are used in the pulling of sleds and small carriages...other small vehicles.
The benefit of a harness is to distribute weight the weight evenly over the neck, chest, shoulders and haunches of the dog so there is little if any pressure points.
The downside is that in the event of any leash training a harness is not recommended as there is little communication to the dog for which way he/she is to go and when to stop or start. The same holds true to using an extendable leash....the dog feels no instruction if they do not know they are even ON a lead.
I often suggest and will sometimes talk people out of the sale of a harness if it is to be used for a young dog who is learning to walk on the lead.
A regular collar or a "Martingale" collar is what I will usually offer as a good training tool used in tandem with 3 or 4 tips on keeping the dog learning what is expected of them.
Harnesses will not allow for any instruction to pass down from owner to pet if they are unable to FEEL the directions.
Having said that I also do not sell the typical harnesses at Woofles and Meowz as they are often ill fitting and will pull and tear the fur around the pet's from legs.
I stock the 3in1 vest harness that is superior to most makes in that it can also be used as the simplest seatbelt in the car...plus it is very comfortable for all dogs and particularily for dogs that are covered in very thick fur like Pomeranians and Sheba Inus.
Coupled with a good collar I also recommend the typical 6 foot lead.
Any questions..please feel free to contact us at our store.

Pet nutrition, vitamins and why!

Many people who come into Woofles and Meowz ask for advice when it comes to nutrition for their pets and we try to give as best as we can however I know enough that I don't know everything.
What we DO know though is what hundreds upon hundreds of pet owners tell us when buying our organic treats that we make here in the store. We modify our recipes with regard to what people are needing and wanting for their dog and cat and have created a good line of treats that our four footed friends can eat with satisfaction and benefit.
There are some very interesting facts that have arisen in the very short past that I think are all linked to good pet health:
Dogs in urban area are much less healthy than their country counterparts.
Cats who eat the odd mouse and bird have far fewer digestion problems than those who have their food placed out in a food bowl everyday.
"Working dogs" who never have the opportunity to DO any kind of work or exercise will almost without fail experience a sort of auto-immune histamine reaction to particular foods usually starting with wheat proteins then chicken then....well its never ending.
Often these problems are treated by well meaning but clueless Vets with antibiotics which in most cases freaks out the dog's digestive system.
An animal that is given a varied diet with a balance of bacteria in all the right ways will be able to process food much better that those pets who have very nucleated diets.
Meat, vegetables, whole grains and low sugar and salt is the way to go with any dogs diet...sounds familiar does it not?!?!?
Sometimes people ask me about vitamins...like they are the be all sure cure for what is a poor diet.
When trace minerals are deficient in our food and water, the body's defense systems cannot function properly. Likewise, animals lacking proper amounts of copper, iron, selenium, and others, have been found to be much more likely to develop diseases and have shorter lifespans. Most animals are usually prescribed drugs, specifically antibiotics and vitamins, at times when they are ill. However, antibiotics kill all germs and rarely discriminate between good and bad germs. When the 'good' germs are constantly assaulted by antibiotics, the 'bad' germs can become super-germs which may then become impervious to drugs. Keeping the immune system healthy in the first place can vastly reduce the need for constant antibiotic treatment. Indeed, antibiotics are only indicated when the body cannot naturally fight against bacteria, not simply when you have a cold but are healthy enough to fight it off. Vitamins help to fortify the immune system and also control the body's appropriation of minerals. However, if there are no vitamins and no trace minerals, the body has no ability to use the vitamins to help fight disease and therefore the vitamins are useless. It is for that reason that replacing lost minerals in both your diet and your pet's diet is essential.Our pets need vitamins and minerals. Just like for us, vitamins and minerals are very important nutrients. In today’s environment, they may need them more than we had originally thought as current diets rob us of much beneficial nutrients. Vitamins perform many important functions for our pets. If your pets depend on canned or dried food, it may be necessary to consider supplementing their diet with vitamins and minerals.
...not to mention a big dose of vegetables. Our pets too live in a polluted world full of toxic chemicals. Besides, they live closer to the ground, closer to pollutants that emanate from synthetic carpets, or to cleaning solvents used on the floor, or to the herbicides and pesticides sprayed in the yard. Indeed, lawn fertilizers have been shown to increase the chance of disease in dogs that play on sprayed lawns.Pets eat highly processed food, possibly the most highly processed on the planet. Often the ingredients are of questionable origin. Though since the debacle of the Chinese food suppliers most food manufacturers have really stepped up their game especially in the Cat and Dog food arena. ........though....would you eat dog or cat food? Many pet foods are loaded with chemicals. Such as artificial colors that make the food look pretty to your eyes. Some of them are banned in other countries. It seems plausible that some pets are sensitive to such chemicals. The food may look good to you but it may be causing grief for your animal. Did you know that advertising claims of "complete and balanced" pet diets are based on uncertain minimum nutritional requirements designed for maintenance of barely adequate health, not optimum health? Also it is hardly comforting to know that many vitamins and minerals are lost in the processing or are simply missing to begin with.Vitamins are classified into 2 main groups: Fat soluble and water soluble. Vitamins A, D, E and K are fat soluble dissolved in fats. A is the skin vitamin. D is for healthy bones and teeth. E is the antioxidant vitamin and K is the blood clotting vitamin. Liver is an excellent food source for all these vitamins. Unfortunately you need to ensure adequate vitamin intake to stay healthy long term. The B vitamin group and vitamin C are water soluble. This means that they are easily lost through cooking and processing. However overdosing is not as big a concern as it is with the fat soluble vitamins. The problem is they flush out of your system regularly, so adequate intake is imperative.The B family of vitamins is for healthy muscle, skin and blood. Vitamin C, the stress, antioxidant vitamin is a popular vitamin for us humans. Carnivores can make their own vitamin C but lately it is believed that they may not be making enough especially in stressful situations. Again liver and kidney are good food sources for pets. This does not mean liver flavor though!How would we suspect a vitamin deficiency in your pet? Your dog or cat will show us the signs. For example: poor skin and hair coat when deficient in vitamins A and / or B; Your pet will be anemic and constantly tired if deficient in vitamin B; and will have cancer and heart problems if deficient in vitamin D. Hopefully, you buy your animal a premium quality food: food that has no preservatives and artificial colors. You also may share some nutritious extras with your pet, things like carrots, broccoli, whole grain rice, oatmeal, and yogurt. If you want to improve your pet's health you need to provide better than adequate nutrition. That means more than what is available in those bags of pet food. You need to fortify your animal's diet with extra vitamins and minerals......and veggies!
That will help strengthen your pet internally so it can fight off the effects of contaminants and stress. Supplementation may also help your pet compensate for possible genetic defects that are becoming increasingly common, particularly among pure breed dogs and cats. Animal breeders supplement their animals with vitamin and mineral supplements. They will tell you that pet food is not enough to protect animals or enable them to achieve optimal health. Well-meaning pet owners who supplement their animals' diets may, in fact, be helping them very little, and possibly causing problems. This is because many pet supplements contain low-quality vitamins and potentially allergenic ingredients such as brewer's yeast and artificial flavors and dyes.Minerals are vital to digestion, growth, repair of tissues, to strong bones, teeth, claws, skin and hair coat. Major minerals such as calcium, magnesium, iron and potassium are often present in supplements, but often enough, trace minerals are often lacking. Yet they are equally important to our pets. Most pet supplements also lack vitamin C because dogs and cats, as do most mammals, produce their own vitamin C internally. However, dogs and cats are minimal producers compared to other animals. Vitamin C performs many critical tasks in your pets body. It is a natural pain reliever and detoxifier. It is a major antioxidant and contributor to immune function. And it plays a major role in the building of collagen, the connective tissue that literally holds the body together. It is, therefore, vital to your pet. Ensure adequate intake of vitamin c for your animal. You should consult your veterinarian on the most appropriate vitamin supplement for your pet and the recommended doses of the vitamins and minerals it needs, as each pet is a bit different. Now...be careful when it comes to going to your Vet for nutritional advice as most Vet's I know are seriously lacking in that regard. Not to say all Vets know very little about nutrition but many don't so try to do some research yourself. there is alot of info out there online and through other websites and blogs, chat rooms and pet forums. Always check out what has worked for other pet owners first and good luck!
WOOF!

Christmas dog accessories. Doggy Santa.

Ok so Halloween is over..Madonna has left the building and the prospect of the Holiday season looms like a cloudbank over yonder ridge! (I heard that somewhere and always wanted to use the term "yonder")
Christmas is coming to Woofles and Meowz and THIS year we have even more doggy santa hats, kitty reindeer antlers and pet stockings aaaalllllll in readiness for the season of "ho-ho-ho".
Here in the caboose on Granville island we dont have a huge anount of room but we tend to have waaaayyy more than most other pet boutique stores and more than most simple pet stores. Our buyers are very good when it comes to the cool stuff!
Pet stockings for santa to fill up are gonna be popular as well as the usual santa hats and reindeer antlers (lighted or non)...anything for the pooch or kitty to look silly for the camera.
My dogs used to wear the Santa hats all day. I think because they were warmer and who does not get a wee thrill or smile when we see the white trimmed red hat on anyone!
THIS year though...and you can thank me anytime, I am NOT putting up the Christmas decorations or merchandise until waaaaay into November. This habit of retailors putting up the Christmas bling either slightly before or right after halloween is silly. I mean, I GET it...the news is all about how some retailers are betting on using their "new again" lay-a-way plans or plan on putting everything on sale right away..............ummmmmm here is the advice of one store owner to those who do that.
"Buy good stuff to begin with and mark it up only fairly..then you wont be stuck with it come January 1st"...right?!?!??!?
As I only have less than 400 sq feet in the caboose I have to have only that stuff that is demanded, requested and tried and true.
Santa hats and stockings will be gone by December 20th......yay. Come on by and say you saw this blog and get 20% off any Item up to Christmas of 2008.
HO-HO-HO!!!!

Cat Safety in Vancouver

As I usually get dogs and their owners shopping in Woofles and Meowz for varous dog treats, dog toys or equipment but there is a good number of people here for what the "Meowz" part can provide.
Cat toys, catnip, treats etc are all here but I sometimes get accused of pandering to the Woofles especially in the advice or help arena so the following is a good 40 tips on cat safety that is a followup to the pet safety tips on a previous blog...all the best!
MEOW!!!

1. You know your cat. If she's acting strange, err on the side of caution: Take her to the vet.
2. Antifreeze is sweet but deadly. If your car leaks, get it fixed, and keep antifreeze far out of reach from your pets. Even one teaspoonful is fatal.
3. Do not underestimate your cat; it can fall out of a window, says Pat Coughlin, a cat owner in Norway. Install protective screens or storm windows to let your cat safely enjoy the view.
4. If your cat tends to chew electrical cords, keep her in a cord-free room when unsupervised, says Larry Lachman, an animal behaviorist in Carmel, Calif. Also, spray cords with safe spicy or bitter-tasting products.
5. If you use clumping litter, groom your cat frequently to remove particles that may accumulate and interfere with elimination.
6. Keep your cats indoors. They'll be healthier and happier, says Ceridwen Attwood, a cat owner in Washington. Outside they're exposed to other animals, risk getting run over by cars and are exposed to the elements.
7. Do not let in strays just for the heck of it, Lachman says. Having strange cats around can overstress your own cat, which may lead to fighting, biting and soiling or spraying around the home.
8. Never hit your cat. Use spray bottles with water if discipline is necessary. Physical punishment doesn't teach your cat appropriate behavior.
9. Consider using clay litter for kittens. If your cat accidentally ingests some litter particles, clay is nontoxic in small quantities.
10. Safely confine your cat when workmen or visitors are in your home [to prevent escape], Lachman says. A bathroom, laundry room, bedroom or cat carrier is ideal for this purpose.
11. Only use cat-specific flea preventives in vet-approved dosages to avoid triggering a dangerous reaction in your cat or kitten.
12. If at all possible, get your cat first, then add a dog to the household, not the other way around, Lachman says. This may reduce fighting over territories.
13. When introducing a kitten to your household, provide food, water, a litterbox, scratching post, bed and toys, and confine your kitten to a safe room (a bathroom or spare bedroom) for the first few days, and any time you cannot directly supervise him. A pheromone diffuser in this safe room can help keep a cat calm.
14. Keep all yarn, string, thread and needles in a secure cabinet. Yarn or string can become caught on a cats barbed tongue and may be swallowed.
15. Don't give cows milk to kittens or adult cats because it may cause gas and diarrhea.
16. Certain human foods and medicines are extremely harmful to cats. Do not leave chocolate, onions or medicines out on counters, Lachman says.
17. Keep your cats identification tag or microchip information current in case your cat wanders away.
18. Train your cat to stay away from the stove at all times, even if not in use, by squirting him with a spray bottle when he gets too close.
19. Do not feed your cat dog food. Cats require different nutrients and more protein in their diets than dogs do.
20. Do not attempt to pick up your cat when he shows signs of defensiveness or aggression. Although your cat adores you, he may still bite or scratch you out of fear.
21. Kittens love to explore, so block their access to the area behind the refrigerator, bookcase or couch so they won't get stuck or injured.
22. Before starting your engine, honk your car horn to scare away any cats sleeping in the engine compartment.
23. Gently handle your kitten on a regular basis to socialize her and prevent behavior problems associated with lack of contact.
24. Do not leave a cat or kitten [unsupervised] with a child under age 7, Lachman says. Kids under age 7 have poor impulse control and can accidentally or intentionally hurt the cat.
25. Cats will make a plaything out of any item, so keep blind cords out of your cats reach to avoid strangulation.
26. With your veterinarians guidance, assemble a kitty first-aid kit and keep this on hand for emergencies.
27. Never leave an iron, hot or cold, sitting on an ironing board. The cord may look like a toy to your kitten and she could pull the iron down on herself.
28. Although cats enjoy playing with the plastic ring from milk jugs, these can be chewed apart and swallowed very easily, says Scott Ransom, a cat owner in Oregon. [My] cat [was] in intensive care for a week once because of this mistake.
29. Cats love moving water, so keep the toilet lid closed to prevent drowning.
30. Don't give cats medicines that aren't intended for cats, says Rosalie Marley, a veteran animal shelter worker in Nebraska. Aspirin, ibuprofen and acetaminophen can be deadly.
31. Keep the clothes dryer and dishwasher shut when not in use. Check inside these appliances before using. Cats love to hide in warm, dark places, but these appliances are fatal when in use.
32. When you pick up your cat, support his chest and legs so he feels safe and does not struggle. This protects you from scratches and bites, too.
33. Some plants are poisonous to cats, Coughlin says. The ASPCA website has a list of toxic and nontoxic plants.
34. Always check your cats whereabouts before closing drawers, closets or doors to avoid accidentally locking your cat in.
35. Your cat can be a danger to smaller pets such as reptiles, fish, birds and rodents. Keep your cat away from other pets when unsupervised.
36. When adding a second cat or kitten to your household, clear his health by your vet prior to bringing him home, so you do not expose your first cat to possible illness.
37. Check your garage door before closing it, to avoid injuring any cats perched there.
38. Install baby locks on cabinets where you keep bug spray, household cleaners or medicines. Your smart cat may learn how to open cupboard doors!
39. Invest in covered wastebaskets and garbage cans for your home to prevent cats from finding dangerous items such as chicken bones or dental floss.
40. Always use a carrier when transporting your cat. Even if your cat loves car rides, she may get underfoot or escape if startled.

Madonna in Vancouver

Well a BIG thanks to Madonna and her crew who flew into town to do a concert at GM place on October 30th.
It was a great show (not her best...the Girlie Show rocked) but as this was a Vancouver gig it was great not to have to travel.
The best part though is that almost EVERYONE in the store has been happy-go-lucky concert attendees.
I have the Madonna tunes rockin' and the conversation is flowing..."oh you paid how much for your tickets??".
Lots of people are in from Edmonton, Calgary, Winnipeg, Victoria etc and I send out a big thanks to those who extended their stay enough to stop by Woofles and Meowz here on Granville Island.
Everyone seems to be in a good mood and getting cool stuff that they may not be able to at home.
For those who stopped by a big thankyou goes out to all you groovin people and I invite you to stop by www.yelp.com and do up a review of any place you may have stopped by while you are here.
Thanks Madonna!

Pet safety in Vancouver.

Here in Vancouver we experience the setting sun as any Canadian would do....earlier with each passing day but we have a much more temperate climate that allows for much of the foliage to hang around.
This makes for some dark streets especially in our wonderfully treed neighborhoods. Some places in the west end are spectacularily shrouded by large maples and a blackening sky as early as before breakfast and at dinner time.....the most frequent times to walk the dog.
Safety for both the pet owner and usually dog (as most cat owners do not walk their cats) is really important this time of year.
It always surprises me when those people with strollers will push them out onto a roadway in a crosswalk as a "test of the waters" to see if people will stop or not. Similar to that, I always find dog owners who have those "extendo" leashes (which are not bad per se and have their benefits)
allow their pets to roam across other peoples paths on sidewalks...onto the roadway and have almost no control of their dogs until they snap them back when they finally realize fido is running toward the wheels of a truck. "yoink!!!!" painful and not fair to the dog.

The most important things to remember when it comes to safety are as follows:

1. Always have your pet in control. A "hard" leash which is just a regular leash attached well to a collar that will not slip off is your main tool to walking a dog.
2.Be VISIBLE...no can see your dog or you if you are dressed in your fashionable all black work clothes. Most cars have blind spots and people themselves are hard to see not to mention a dark coated dog. Light coloured clothing, reflective collars, blinker lights (my favourite) all make for a visible pet and can be fun and fashionable too!
3.Auto drivers cannot and will not stop if they do not see your pet. Do not assume there is anything visible about your dog. Most drivers cannot see anything close to their vehicle that is less than two feet high which is most four footed friends. This is where extendo leads are dangerous...if a car sees you he may not see
4. Nobody...NOBODY has "the right of way"...there is no such thing and one can debate the semantics of it but everything we do in regards to traffic and movement is a priveledge and even though someone might think they have a "right" a 4000lb vehicle has the inertia and physics that outweigh "rights". You can debate this later when your dog is dead and you were in "the right".
5.Clothing safety for your pet...this can work two ways for and against. Protective clothes on wet and cold days can be great and help if they are reflective. They can hinder if they are dark and block the pet's view of oncoming traffic.
6.Watch for excessive salt useage on snowy pathways...this can get on the paws and irritate which causes a chewing on the paws response....simple rinse paws after the walks for half a minute.
............ok so there a few more tips but more to the topic of darkening and wintery days are the previous ones.
Any questions?? please stop by the caboose here on Granville Island at woofles and Meowz.
Happy walking and be safe this autumn and winter.
WOOF!!!

Halloween costumes for pets.

So...as probably mentioned, last year I said to myself..."nahhh I'm not gonna bring in any halloween costumes...nobody will want them most likely"........boy was I WRONG!!!
Every hour from October 1st to the All Hallows Eve I had people ask for costumes.
THIS year I looked around and ordered several types with decent construction and materials that would not be too fussy for the dogs to wear...........they are flying off the shelves to say the least. YAY!
Here in Vancouver which was once called "the no fun city" it seems we have turned things around dramatically. There are, again, festivals and fireworks and with the Olympic games in 2010 coming and the "International Out Games" in 2011 so many things that will make this city a fun one once again.
Halloween and parades of pets in costumes are big stuff here from what I have seen and heard as well.
I wonder if it is the trade off of children for pets or simply a nostalgia ride for many who have chosen not to have children and are past the dressing up stage??
I have always said that Halloween is an adult holiday and more truly an Gay adult holiday...after all the gays did create all the good parties and invited the straights to participate..."as long as you didn't show it" or "flaunt your heterosexuality".
Luckily with the excuse to wear your wives pantyhose...most people didn't....and we were all glad. It was a time to party and relax and not worry about labels or looking silly.
But I digress.
Halloween costumes for the pooches seem to be the thing this year for those too cool or can't seem to fork over the expense for an adult costume....a fun and interesting doggy costume can be had for a mere $20 or as simple as a witches hat for $4....anything to get the picture before it gets thrown off.
The major benefit of all this, of course, is that any healthy interaction between pet and owner is a good one.
Any and all fun play for a pet will keep them happy and healthy and if that means a spooktacular pet parade in your city or dressing the pet up as you trick-or-treat with the kids can be fun!!
WOOF!!!

Citizen canine

Recently I joined a great group out of Victoria called Citizen Canine (http://www.citizencanine.org/) which started as a grassroots organization for the well being of pets and their owners. They seem to be a very well supported group and offer lots of assistance. Please check out their site and see what they have to offer.
One of the bits of info they share very clearly are the questions to ask yourself when choosing a dog......

Choosing a dog should never be taken lightly. Never buy a dog on impulse! And always consider adopting one of the many great shelter dogs

The first question you should ask yourself when considering becoming a dog owner is not "What kind of dog should I get?" but "Am I truly ready to bring a dog into my home and family?." Dog ownership can be a rewarding and wonderful experience, or it can be miserable for everyone involved. It is crucial to be absolutely certain that you are prepared to change your lifestyle to accommodate the needs of a dog BEFORE you get your heart set on any particular dog.
Are you ready to get up earlier every morning for the rest of your animal's life so that you can take him for a walk before work?
If you live alone and work long or unpredictable hours, who will make sure your dog gets fed, walked and taken out to the bathroom?
Bringing a canine companion in your life will mean sacrificing some of the spontaneity you may now enjoy. And don't forget - dogs live from ten to fifteen years or even longer. Dog ownership is a long-term commitment!
The most common reason for animal abandonment from even the most well intended owners is "I have to move." This is of course exacerbated in BC by lack of legislated access for pets, including dogs.
Are you in a stable living situation?
If you did have to move, are you willing to make a commitment to ensure that the dog will move with you?
All dogs need training and it's important to recognize that in the first year or so of their lives, you will need to make a commitment to train and your dog to be comfortable around other people and dogs and to know how to behave in public.
Are you willing to put in the time and effort to socialize your dog and give it basic obedience training?

Before You Start Looking:
The most important investment of time you can make for your dog should be made before you've even met the dog! You need to seriously consider what kind of dog you, your home and your lifestyle are suited for. Too often, people fall in love with a puppy or feel desperate to help a dog they've seen at a shelter - only to bring home a dog that's totally unsuitable for them. This can be devastating to everyone involved, including the dog!
Having clear parameters in mind about such things as age, expected size, coat type, activity requirements, temperament, and potential or known health or training problems will help you make a good decision about the dog that's right for you.
Here are a few tips to help you get started:
Age:
Puppies should be at least eight weeks old before leaving their mother. At five or six weeks old, puppies are barely weaned! They should also have had at least one set of vaccinations before you bring them to their new home.
Getting a dog doesn't always mean getting a puppy. While there are benefits to being the first owner of a dog - there are many benefits to adopting a dog that's not a puppy. Not everyone has time to raise a puppy; an adult dog may be the solution.
Older dogs need new homes for many different reasons, most of which probably have nothing to do with the dog itself.
It is not uncommon for even expensive, purebred dogs to be surrendered to shelters when their owners move or are no longer able or willing to take care of them.
Older dogs have known personality traits that make them an excellent choice for households with small children.
They may have already reached their maximum size, will likely be house and possibly, obedience trained, have probably graduated beyond the chewing-everything-left-in-reach stage and may already have been spayed or neutered.
The energy level of the adult dog is also likely to be more compatible with a household where everyone is in school or at work during the day.
By adopting an older dog, you will not only save a dog from being euthanised but will also make a statement about compassion and the value of all life at all ages, at the same time as bringing a wonderful addition into your family - a win-win situation for everyone!
If you think you might be interested in adopting an older dog, get in touch with the vets, groomers, boarding kennels and training centers in your area. Contact rescue organizations, visit animal shelters, and look in the newspaper. You may be able to negotiate a "trial period", particularly if the dog comes from a rescue organization to insure everyone is happy and getting along before a firm commitment is made.
If you do have your heart set on getting a puppy, here are a few tips on how to pick one from a litter.1. Confident?
Try and call the puppy to you by kneeling down, clapping gently and calling to him.A confident puppy will come readily, tail up and attempt to play with your hands.
2. Independent?
Stand up and walk away from the pup in a normal manner. Make sure the pup sees you walk away.Not following indicates independence, which may make training difficult later on.
3. Dominant or Submissive?
Crouch down and gently roll the pup on his back and hold it with one hand for a full 30 seconds. Fierce resistance, such as flailing and crying out indicates difficulty with submission Let pup stand up and gently stroke him from the head to back while you crouch beside him. Continue stroking until a recognizable behavior is established.The pup may try to dominate by jumping, nipping or growling, or may accept your dominance by cuddling up and trying to lick you.
Bend over and cradle the pup under its belly, fingers interlaced, palms up and elevate just off the ground. Hold it there for 30 seconds.Again, fierce struggling and growling are indications that the dog has a tendency to be dominant, and little or no struggle indicates submission.
Dominant dogs may have aggressive tendencies, both with people and other dogs. They do not make good pets for children or the elderly. There could be difficulties teaching the dog "its place" in the social order of your household. These dogs should only be considered by someone who has experience with dominant dogs.
Pups that submit readily and avoid eye contact may be overly submissive and aren't a good choice for a first-time dog owner. They will need special handling to build confidence and bring them out of their shells. These pups do not adapt well to change. They do best in very structured environment. They are usually safe around children but may bite if severely stressed.
Ideally, pups should struggle a bit, and then settle with some eye contact.
4. Retriever?
Crouch beside pup and attract its attention with crumpled up paper ball. When the pup shows interest and is watching, toss the object 1 to 2 meters in front of pup.There is a high correlation between ability to retrieve and willingness to work with a human.
5. Sensitive?
Take puppy's webbing of one front foot and press between finger and thumb lightly, then more firmly till you get a response, while you count slowly to 10. Stop as soon as puppy pulls away or shows discomfort.If the puppy starts squirming in less than a 3-4 seconds, it is very sensitive to touch. If you're looking for a "snuggle-bunny", this may not be the right dog for you.
Make a sharp noise a few feet from the puppy.Cringing and/or attempting to hide may indicate the puppy is shy. If the puppy ignores the sound, he may have a hearing problem. Ideally, the pup will try and locate the sound and show some curiosity about it.
Place pup in centre of room. Tie a string around a large towel and jerk it across the floor a few feet away from the puppy.Running away and hiding is not a good sign!
It requires a great deal of extra work to help a "spooky" dog adapt to new situations or sudden changes. Some dogs can become very aggressive if they are frightened, so delicate handling will be required to prevent this from happening.
Expected Size:
Dogs range in size from the tiny Toy Poodle to the very large Great Dane - and everything in between. Consider the size of your home, your yard, and your vehicle. But, don't be fooled into thinking any small dog will be content in a small living space. Some small dogs, Jack Russell Terriers for instance, require a LOT of exercise. Conversely, some very large breed dogs, like Mastiffs, are content to flop on the floor and do nothing all day.Are you interested in a "lap dog" or a dog big enough to protect you or your home?What about your ability to handle the dog, on leash or off?
There is generally a standard range of sizes for any given breed of purebred dog. It can be a little harder to predict the size that a mixed breed dog will reach. If the dog you are considering is a puppy - it may help to view the dog's parents, if you can. If not, you may want to ask a veterinarian to give you an estimate. If you are adopting a dog from a shelter, generally they will attempt to identify which breeds a dog may be and estimate a size for you.
Coat Type:
Almost all dogs have coats that shed to one degree or another. How do you feel about dog hair and dust bunnies? Does anyone in your home have allergies to dog hair or dog dander?
Many breeds of dog require regular coat care and grooming. This could mean investing in a dog brush, and spending time using it or it may mean taking the dog to a professional groomer. This can add up to quite an expense over the lifetime of a dog.
Dogs with oily outer coats can develop an unpleasant "doggy odor".
Dogs with short hair may not be suited to cooler, northern climates - particularly if they will be expected to spend a great deal of time outdoors.
Activity Requirements:
There is a huge variation between breeds and individual dogs as to how much activity they require. Some are very energetic and need almost constant physical activity and mental stimulation. Others are content to be companion animals and need very little exercise to stay healthy.
Are you looking for a dog to take running and hiking, or a couch potato to keep you company?
Typically Basset Hounds, Dachshunds, and Bernese Mountain Dogs don't make great jogging companions. Similarly, Border Collies, Australian Shepherds and Jack Russell Terriers are not ideal for being left alone for long periods of time.
How much and what types of exercise could you provide for your dog?
If your time is limited, you should look for smaller or less active dogs that can obtain enough exercise in your home or from short walks.
Ask yourself if you are willing to make a commitment to the level of activity and attention that this dog will require. Under and/or over- exercising your dog can have serious consequences on their health, happiness and your relationship with them. While most dogs tend to "slow down" as they mature, it may be several years before this happens!
Gender:
There are pros and cons to either gender-- all of which are generalities and may or may not apply to a specific dog. By all means, if you have a preference, get the gender you want. If you are not sure, it really doesn't matter -- look for the dog you hit it off with.
Temperament:
As with size, the general temperament of any particular breed of purebred dog is usually well known to breeders and veterinarians. Some terms used to describe dog temperaments include: aloof, loyal, dominant, aggressive, independent, gentle, intense. However, as with people, dogs can be quite individual!
Purebred or Mixed-breed?
If you are interested in a purebred dog, you do some research on several different breeds before making up your mind about any one in particular. Most libraries will have a good selection of books on this topic, as does the Internet. You should also consider attending a dog show where you can see adult specimens of the breeds you are interested in. Make sure you buy your dog from a reputable breeder and ask to see the parents as well. A reputable breeder will try to match the puppy's temperament to your family situation.
DO NOT buy a dog or puppy from a pet store ... responsible breeders never sell their puppies through a pet store. Even if the store tells you otherwise, it is likely that the puppies are from puppy mills. For a fantastic resource on the topic please see No Puppy Mills Canada.
You won't be sorry you made a little extra effort to make an informed choice, and you'll have a compatible, happy companion for years to come!
.............so these are some great tips on choosing a dog. We at Woofles and Meowz agree about the "not buying dogs from store"...there is too many other options.
Best of luck...WOOF!!

Facebook page for Woofles and Meowz

So as I step into the blinding light of the new ages I see just how fast technology moves especially in the marketing arena.

Yeh I know that it sounds like a cliche.."everything is moving forward so fast" but I am not without a few skills in knowing what is cutting edge or at the very least semi sharp.

Lately I have discovered that there are some interesting ways to get people onboard the caboose.

One way is to pinpoint marketing towards your target buyers and I have found that most of my shoppers are completely computer savvy and navigate around a keyboard like nobody's business.

I have placed our address at http://www.yelp.com/ to add a completely unbiased review site as well we did up a new facebook page at the link below...if you like it become a "fan"...we'd love ya forever!

http://www.facebook.com/pages/Vancouver-Pet-Bakery-Boutique-Woofles-And-Meowz-Granville-Island/35776272241

Pet Euthanasia ...what can you say?!??

Putting them to sleep...Pet Euthanasia...putting them down...anyway you say it, it can be a trying experience to say the least.
Recently I had the experience of watching my partner Cameron go through the ordeal of having to put his cat "Sandy" down.
One of the many, many questions people have to ask themselves before getting a pet of any kind is "Can I afford to care for this animal if they get hurt, ill or chronically sick?" or "What is my limit financially as to what I can realistically afford to pay to a Vet in the case of a problem with the animal?"
The first question is a simple one as any person who may be thinking of getting an animal should have some resources to care for an animal in case of emergency. There should be no question about it actually. If you have no money "in case" then you simply cannot....CANNOT afford to have an animal in your care.
It is only fair to the animal as harsh as it may seem to hear or read especially in this day of interbred dogs and poor backyard breeders that propagate sooo many dogs that almost immediately need some vet care.
These are not simple bills either.
Just walking into a Vet's office can cost you several hundred dollars for a minor checkup.
The second question is a very different one as situations change during the course of someone's life and a person's ability to pay for Vet care can change.
I am one who thinks that there should definitely be a set amount of money that one should be prepared to spend and not be swayed in the moment of stress and grief to go way beyond their means to sustain an animals life ...especially if it means the animal may not be in good health or life a compromised existence simply to passify an owner.
I know of a few people who have paid thousands and tens of thousands of dollars to help animals that were so far gone and sick that they are still paying for it years after the animal has passed.
I will undoubtedly hear from people who say "I'll pay anything for my baby...there should be no limit to save an animal"
ummmmm wrong. There is a limit when you don't have it. People should not lose their homes over the bills incurred from pet healthcare. Any smart owner should know this and I will go on record to say that MY limit is probably more than 90% of people out there but there is still a limit. 'nuf said.
Cameron did have a limit and unfortunately he did go past it in the efforts to find out that his cat did have cancer in several places in her body which was making it very uncomfortable and almost impossible to pass food and get any kind of nutrition.
This poor cat lost so much weight so very fast it was obvious she was pretty sick however Cam had a 'limit" and had her tested to find out what was wrong in the event that she could be helped.
This was not to be the case however and it was decided that after 14 years living a very healthy life she was now living a painful life and it was time to be a good owner and do the right thing.

Cam decided that it would be best to have his cat put down at home and not in a sterile environment like the Vet's office so he contacted a local Vet Dr. Joseph Martinez who was available to come to the apartment to administer the Euthenasia.
It is with utmost respect when I say that I would recommend this person in the event one needs to have an animal "put down".
Joseph was very respectful and careful in his instruction on how the procedure would progress. He allayed fears and was aware that some people would need to grieve in private and allowed a simple process to happen without fuss or stress to the animal and the owner alike.
Sandy was administered her meds and fell asleep without any unforseen circumstances...she was finally without pain and hunger and allowed to be peaceful. After a short time alone with his cat Cam allowed Joseph to take her away in her travel box to be cremated.
Today, her ashes were brought back into the store in a lovely little urn urn accompanied with a lovely card and poem.
The process could have been much, much more painful and it is with thanks that we pass on his contact information at http://www.untilwemeetagain.ca/
or you can email him at greencrossvet@yahoo.ca
Should you find that you are considering the options on your pet's healthcare I offer a simple test to ask yourself.
Ask yourself: What would be in the best interest of everyone concerned..pet and owner. If you ask the question with only one being being considered (the owner or the pet) then the other one always suffers.
All the best!!!!
WOOF!

Puppy Mills

One of the things we are fully against here at Woofles and Meowz is the purchase of live animals from stores. The following info and link is from www.shutdownpuppymills.com. There is some interesting info on the site that explains the pitfalls of animal purchases from pet stores.
As you can see from our store at www.wooflesandmeowz.com we never have or would have live animal sales here. There are way too many options with the pet rescue organizations and reputable breeders. Tips of the day for picking a reputable breeder are this:
1. If the breeder has been in business for a good length of time that is longer than the recent boom in dog ownership in the last 4 years.
2. The breeder has exceptional stock that is well known and "papered"....that is the dog is not a mixed breed dog that they decided to breed from theirs and a neighbors.
3. The breeder has adequate and professional facilities and equipment.
4. The breeder has a good relationship with a Vet that will give a referral.
5. Other pet owners that have got an animal from the same breeder can give a referral.
6. The breeder has a portfolio of whom the animals were sold to and some contact with at least a couple or few of the owners.
7. The VIBE...if you are wary and it seems like the dogs are handled in a poor manner or the breeder is not forthcoming with information....walk away.
.............and of course...do your homework. Always pick a dog or cat for that matter that will fit your lifestyle. I cannot stress this too much.
There is also a great television show that I like very much and find the trainer to have similar style of teaching to myself...perhaps a bit abrasive but the message must be made to certain people that "you must do the work now that you have committed to an animal" its only the right thing to do. Check out that show host :

Brad Pattison
Brad Pattison has been professionally remedying dog behaviour for over 15 years. Brad uses revolutionary techniques derived from his studies of domesticated dogs, wolves and coyotes.
Brad’s unique methods involve communicating with dogs in a way they understand – through body language.
Brad founded the first Dog Day Care Centre in Vancouver, creating the concept that is now used around the world. He created the first Street Safety training program, and runs courses that teach other dog educators his skills. His ‘Six Legs to Fitness’, a workout program involving owners and their dogs, has been featured on Discovery Channel’s ‘Daily Planet.’
During the Hurricane Katrina disaster, Brad mobilized friends and created the Pattison Canine Rescue Team. The team spent several weeks in Louisiana and New Orleans rescuing dogs from the floods. Featured on Discovery Channel’s ‘Daily Planet.’
Brad has appeared on CBC’s Venture, Lifestyle Network’s Gentle Doctor, PBS’ Sesame Street, and the upcoming Three Takes for Slice™.
Brad was the host of Yuppy Puppy, his own radio show and is a frequent guest on radio stations across the country. He has appeared in newspapers and magazines such as Dog World, Wall Street Journal and USA Today.

...................and the show at http://www.slice.ca/Shows/Host.aspx?Root_Title_ID=105200

WOOF!!!!

Tainted Dog Food.

Many people have been asking me about the possibility of tainted dog food coming back on the market especially with the Melamine scare in processed milk items from China and distributed products using such milk.
I always go back to the rule of thumb that "if you'd eat it then you can feed it to your dog...however SHOULD you is another story".
This means that if you would not eat it then nor should your dog..ingredient wise. If you shouldn't be eating it but you do anyway...then your dog should not be eating it too.
I only carry here at Woofles and Meowz food products that are either locally made or manufactured in Canada or the USA. I only carry food items that have ingredients that I can readily identify.
Right now..if it is from China..I just don't carry it...no apologies made here as the proof is in the pudding as the Brits would say...tainted pet products and tainted food products destined for child consumption. It doesn't take a detective to deduce the problems.
Keep to local and always...always add a variety of fresh food to any reputable dog food whether it be kibble or raw based.

Halloween dog costumes

So THIS year I brought in a whole slew of costumes for Halloween for the pooches and a few items for the cats as well. Mostly for the cats I have collars that are festively adorned with tule cut in leaf and bat shapes and witches hats with or without scary hair attached...FUN!!
For the dogs I HAD to bring in the ever faithful "hotdog" costume which is nothing more than two soft buns that run the side of the dog's body with either a mustard or red "ketchup" along the back...tooooo funny.
Last year I thought "nahhhh nobody is wanting costumes for their dog and I may be stuck with them"....WRONG!!!! I was asked almost every hour from October 1st to the end of the month.
This month the shelves at Woofles and Meowz offer the Dinosaur...the skunk...the spider...the tuxedo and the cheerleader costumes.....plus a few other goodies.
I offer apologies to all cats who will be tormented mercilessly while Aunt Margerie tries to take the picture while they balance the witches hat on their furry head. OR
to the dogs who will be dragged through the neighborhood wearing a costume that will make even the most ferocious dog look like the skunk "Pepe LePew" from Warner Bros cartoon fame........TRICK OR TREAT!!!!

Freeze dried dog treats

As a dog trainer here in Vancouver I get asked alot of times "what is the best reward for training purposes?"
Well...I usually say "as little as possible" as what you want to do is use the treats to start of the reward system and then it should be just for the patting and kind words that a dog will obey.
For the puppies...its a different story....like kids they can be bought!
I will often use a very simple freeze dried liver treat as it seems to be very gentle on the stomach and dogs can eat alot without getting the poops from them. If your dog is reactive to wheat proteins then this is a great alternative for them. There are several on the market and I carry a few lines from only the best suppliers here at the Granville Island store however there are alternatives...
A lovely customer of ours here at Woofles and Meowz makes her own treats with the liver doing both a dehydrated version and a freeze dried one.
For a great dehydrated treat you must start with either a good dehydrater or use the oven to dry out the product on a very low temp...almost baking the liver pate.
She says to take as much beef liver as you like and make it into a pate in a food processor. Some people will add salt and/or other ingredients to the pate at this time but it is not necessary.
Simply spread the mixture on a flat baking pan no more than an half inch high and bake at 275-300 degrees until the mixture has shrunk and completely dried out. You can not overcook this mixture too much as it is all about getting all the water out of the liver while the temp kills any bacteria. I have usually cooked it for 2-2.5 hours but your oven may vary. Just MAKE SURE the product is completely dry.
After it is done simply break up the dried pieces and keep in a freezer.
I am not sure on the length of time it can be kept as it only lasts a few days around here. Use your best discretion.
OH! and major tip....open ALL the windows in the house when doing this as it is a smelly project!!! fair warning!
The freeze dried method is:
Take any cow or calf liver and boil for 30-45 minutes until fully cooked. Let cool and cut into dice sized pieces and lay out on a flat baking pan and put in a very cold freezer. Often the freezer in your fridge may have to be made colder as they are not as cold as say..a deep freezer. There IS a difference and what you want is the DRY cold of a freezer set on the coldest temp. After a week or so the product will be dried out and you can test this by taking one piece out and letting it thaw. If there is any water in it you will see it leak out. Dont be afraid to see the liver turn white in the freezer..this is normal. Dont keep for more than a couple of months as it does get too dry and unappetising for even the biggest food-hound.
Hope this works and oh: Disclaimer of course...wash all utensils and hands after using with raw ingredients...dont keep product too long.....dont use old liver from dinner that had onions or other spices that may not agree with FIDO and use only fresh liver. If unsure there are a variety of packs her at the store!
Cheers! and enjoy your freeze dried dog treats

Fall in Vancouver and Granville Island.

Ahh the leaves are changing and the air turns a bit clearer this time of year. Walks and talks and wrapping your hands around a nice cuppa something while you try to not spill it on the woolens you pulled from the closet are the things to do this time of year.
Woofles and Meowz sits pretty much at the entrance to our much visited Granville Island here in Vancouver and is often one of the first stops people will make while on those walks.
Often they are accompanied by one or more four footed friends in tow...or if we are baking here in the caboose just the other way around.
This is also the time of year when many people start thinking about some weather protection for their dog.
There are a few tips that I like to share regarding clothing for dogs:
1. If your dog is a purse-pooch who is used to wearing clothing for the fad and fashion of it then you are now at the time where warmth is the need and you will not notice so many smirks when taking FIFI for the morning constitutional.
2. Athletic people who take their dogs on extended walks and hikes need be aware that they will be clad in Gortex and fleece but REX wont be and a simple coat that keeps the wet off their back can make a world of difference.
3.As often as I talk to people about doggy shoes there are many times that I talk people OUT of buying these items for their dog. Dog shoes are great for those people who play in the snow or walk in areas where salt and calcium derivatives are used on roadways. This can be great protection against freezing paws and most sled teams use them in high snow/running areas but not so great if you are just running around the yard in mild temperatures.
4. Dogs lose their heat on their back so a simple coat can keep them warm even if not fully covering all areas.
5. There is a reason that many dog clothes dont cover the legs and lower extremities in that when wet a dog will get colder than if he can simple shed off the water instead of it being clad to his body from a hanging coat.
6.keep in mind that for some dogs an article of clothing will seem foreign and it may take a few times of wearing it inside for a few minutes to aclimate to it.
7. At Woofles and Meowz we like to ask about what the wee pooch is gonna DO while wearing said item so as to get the best use out of it.
8. Puppies and older dogs will benefit from a bit more protection than midlife dogs.
9.Clothing items that have some form of reflective or lighting in the make-up are well suited for running around the ever increasing darkening streets as the days get shorter moving toward winter.
........and finally......many dogs are imported here from very warm climes (like Chihuahuas) so clothes work well...while others simple can use their OWN fur coat if its just cold and not wet.