So I know that my store is well known for its "in house" made treats (unlike some other dog bakeries that just heat up already made formulas) and that there is a dedicated following to the treats made right here but I can't help but wonder what people have been feeding Fido over the past few years.
A gentleman walked into the store, looked at the fresh baked items and said recently "wow, dogs eat better cookies than I do".
I didn't take him to task on the issue too much as what he probably meant was "oh dogs now eat good food that is not filled with crap".
I try to do as much research as possible into food ingredients and as a cosmetic manufacturer in my other job I am privy to certain info that others may not be..and know the difference between what is ok to consume and what is touted as a "chemical" or a "preservative" which seem to be the buzz words of ill informed writers and "cause heads" who make like Chicken Little with regard to ingredients.
I try to remind people that everything is a chemical and a preservative most used in food is Tocopherals.....which is Vitamin E.
Without preservatives we would be dead by now from the history of how long we keep things around.............just how old IS that salad dressing or mustard in the fridge?!?!?
I came across a really good excerpt from a book recently that talks to the ingredients of dog food.
Now most people will no longer import food from China for animals and it looks like less is being imported for people especially with milk products in the item.
Here is the rub people...what makes you think that someone in another country like China is looking out for your well being and is adhering to the same standards as manufacturers here in this country or the US???
What makes you think that dog food or cat food is made with the same standards as human food?
There is an interesting dichotomy in that when I snack on a biscuit here in my store that is made with 100% organic ingredients, free range eggs, extra virgin olive oil, lamb, roasted chicken, peanut-butter, etc people are often quick to make a joke of it. "Ewwww..dog biscuits."
"What do you think I put in my treats?" I will respond.
More to that end..."what do you think is in YOUR dog's treats" is the subtext..and "why are you surprised when your dog has constant diarreha"?
The following is the excerpt from the book,
"Food Pets Die For: Shocking Facts About Pet Food." By Ann N. Martin. NewSage Press (1997).
I have placed my two cents in italics and bold type where I thought it necessary.
Television commercials and magazine advertisements for pet food would have us believe that the meats, grains, and fats used in these foods could grace our dining tables. Chicken, beef, lamb, whole grains, and quality fats are supposedly the composition of dog and cat food.
In my opinion, when we purchase these bags and cans of commercial food, we are in most cases purchasing garbage. Not so much these days as manufacturers have really stepped up their game...though I still agree with addition of vegetables and other things to keep the flora balanced in the gut.
Unequivocally, I cannot state that all pet food falls into this category, but I have yet to find one that I could, in all good conscience, feed my dog or cats.
Pet food labels can be deceiving. They only provide half the story. The other half of the story is hidden behind obscure ingredients listed on the labels. Bit by bit, over seven years, I have been able to unearth information about what is contained in most commercial pet food. At first I was shocked, but my shock turned to anger when I realized how little the consumer is told about the actual contents of the pet food. Yup..too true.
As discussed in Chapter Two, companion animals from clinics, pounds, and shelters can and are being rendered and used as sources of protein in pet food. Dead-stock removal operations play a major role in the pet food industry. Dead animals, road kill that cannot be buried at roadside, and in some cases, zoo animals, are picked up by these dead stock operations. I have not heard this to be true here in Canada as it just does not compute to be cost effective.
When an animal dies in the field or is killed due to illness or disability, the dead stock operators pick them up and truck them to the receiving plant. There the dead animal is salvaged for meat or, depending on the state of decomposition, delivered to a rendering plant. At the receiving plants, the animals of value are skinned and viscera removed. Hides of cattle and calves are sold for tanning. Dead animals are strictly forbidden to be rendered at least here in Canada and most plants would outright refuse.The usable meat is removed from the carcass, and covered in charcoal to prevent it from being used for human consumption. Then the meat is frozen, and sold as animal food, which includes pet food.
The packages of this frozen meat must be clearly marked as "unfit for human consumption." The rest of the carcass and poorer quality products including viscera, fat, etcetera, are sent to the rendering facilities. Rendering plants are melting pots for all types of refuse. Restaurant grease and garbage; meats and baked goods long past the expiration dates from supermarkets (Styrofoam trays and shrink-wrap included); the entrails from dead stock removal operations, and the condemned and contaminated material from slaughterhouses. All of these are rendered.
The slaughterhouses where cattle, pigs, goats, calves, sheep, poultry, and rabbits meet their fate, provide more fuel for rendering. After slaughter, heads, feet, skin, toenails, hair, feathers, carpal and tarsal joints, and mammary glands are removed. This material is sent to rendering. Animals who have died on their way to slaughter are rendered. Cancerous tissue or tumors and worm-infested organs are rendered. Injection sites, blood clots, bone splinters, or extraneous matter are rendered. Contaminated blood is rendered. Stomach and bowels are rendered. Contaminated material containing or having been treated with a substance not permitted by, or in any amount in excess of limits prescribed under the Food and Drug Act or the Environmental Protection Act. In other words, if a carcass contains high levels of drugs or pesticides this material is rendered. Before rendering, this material from the slaughterhouse is "denatured," which means that the material from the slaughterhouse is covered with a particular substance to prevent it from getting back into the human food chain. In the United States the substances used for denaturing include: crude carbolic acid, fuel oil, or citronella. In Canada the denaturing agent is Birkolene B. When I asked, the Ministry of Agriculture would not divulge the composition of Birkolene B, stating its ingredients are a trade secret.
At the rendering plant, slaughterhouse material, restaurant and supermarket refuse, dead stock, road kill, and euthanized companion animals are dumped into huge containers. A machine slowly grinds the entire mess. After it is chipped or shredded, it is cooked at temperatures of between 220 degrees F. and 270 degrees F. (104.4 to 132.2 degrees C.) for twenty minutes to one hour. The grease or tallow rises to the top, where it is removed from the mixture. This is the source of animal fat in most pet foods. The remaining material, the raw, is then put into a press where the moisture is squeezed out. We now have meat and bone meal.
The Association of American Feed Control Officials in its "Ingredient Definitions," describe meat meal as the rendered product from mammal tissue exclusive of blood, hair, hoof, hide, trimmings, manure, stomach, and rumen (the first stomach or the cud of a cud chewing animal) contents except in such amounts as may occur unavoidably in good processing practices. In an article written by David C. Cooke, "Animal Disposal: Fact and Fiction," Cooke noted, "Can you imagine trying to remove the hair and stomach contents from 600,000 tons of dog and cats prior to cooking them?" It would seem that either the Association of American Feed Control Officials definition of meat meal or meat and bone meal should be redefined or it needs to include a better description of "good factory practices."
When 4-D animals are picked up and sent to these rendering facilities, you can be assured that the stomach contents are not removed. The blood is not drained nor are the horns and hooves removed. The only portion of the animal that might be removed is the hide and any meat that may be salvageable and not too diseased to be sold as raw pet food or livestock feed. The Minister of Agriculture in Quebec made it clear that companion animals are rendered completely.
Pet Food Industry magazine states that a pet food manufacturer might reject rendered material for various reasons, including the presence of foreign material (metals, hair, plastic, rubber, glass), off odor, excessive feathers, hair or hog bristles, bone chunks, mold, chemical analysis out of specification, added blood, leather, or calcium carbonate, heavy metals, pesticide contamination, improper grind or bulk density, and insect infestation.
Please note that this article states that the manufacturer might reject this material, not that it does reject this material.
If the label on the pet food you purchase states that the product contains meat meal, or meat and bone meal, it is possible that it is comprised of all the materials listed above.
Meat, as defined by the Association of American Feed Control Officials (AAFCO), is the clean flesh derived from slaughtered mammals and is limited to that part of the striate muscle that is skeletal or that which is found in the tongue, diaphragm, heart, or esophagus; with or without the accompanying and overlying fat and the portions of the skin, sinew, nerve, and blood vessels that normally accompany the flesh. When you read on a pet food label that the product contains "real meat," you are getting blood vessels, sinew and so on-hardly the tasty meat that the industry would have us believe it is putting in the food.
Meat by-products are the non rendered, clean parts other than meat derived from slaughtered mammals. It includes, but is not limited to, lungs, spleen, kidneys, brain, livers, blood, bone, partially defatted low temperature fatty tissue, and stomachs and intestines freed of their contents. Again, be assured that if it could be used for human consumption, such as kidneys and livers, it would not be going into pet food. If a liver is found to be infested with worms (liver flukes), if lungs are filled with pneumonia, these can become pet food. However, in Canada, disease-free intestines can still be used for sausage casing for humans instead of pet food.
What about other sources of protein that can be used in pet food? Poultry-by-product meal consists of ground, rendered, clean parts of the carcasses of slaughtered poultry, such as necks, feet, undeveloped eggs, and intestines, exclusive of feathers, except in such amounts as might occur unavoidably in good processing practice.
Poultry-hatchery by-products are a mixture of egg shells, infertile and unhatched eggs and culled chicks that have been cooked, dried and ground, with or without removal of part of the fat.
Poultry by-products include non rendered clean parts of carcasses of slaughtered poultry such as heads, feet, and viscera, free of fecal content and foreign matter except in such trace amounts as might occur unavoidably in good factory practice. These are all definitions as listed in the AAFCO "Ingredient Definitions."
Hydrolyzed poultry feather is another source of protein - not digestible protein, but protein nonetheless. This product results from the treatment under pressure of clean, intact feathers from slaughtered poultry free of additives, and/or accelerators.
We have covered the meat and poultry that can be used in commercial pet foods but according to the AAFCO there are a number of other sources that can make up the protein in these foods. As we venture down the road of these other sources, please be advised to proceed at your own risk if you have a weak stomach.
Hydrolysed hair is a product prepared from clean hair treated by heat and pressure to produce a product suitable for animal feeding.
Spray-dried animal blood is produced from clean, fresh animal blood, exclusive of all extraneous material such as hair, stomach belching (contents of stomach), and urine, except in such traces as might occur unavoidably in good factory practices.
Dehydrated food-waste is any and all animal and vegetable produce picked up from basic food processing sources or institutions where food is processed. The produce shall be picked up daily or sufficiently often so that no decomposition is evident. With this ingredient, it seems that what you don't see won't hurt you.
Dehydrated garbage is composed of artificially dried animal and vegetable waste collected sufficiently often that harmful decomposition has not set in and from which have been separated crockery, glass, metal, string, and similar materials.
Dehydrated paunch products are composed of the contents of the rumen of slaughtered cattle, dehydrated at temperatures over 212 degrees F. (100 degrees C.) to a moisture content of 12 percent or less, such dehydration is designed to destroy any pathogenic bacteria.
Dried poultry waste is a processed animal waste product composed primarily of processed ruminant excreta that has been artificially dehydrated to a moisture content not in excess of 15 percent. It shall contain not less than 12 percent crude protein, not more than 40 percent crude fiber, including straw, wood shavings and so on, and not more than 30 percent ash.
Dried swine waste is a processed animal-waste product composed primarily of swine excreta that has been artificially dehydrated to a moisture content not in excess of 15 percent. It shall contain not less than 20 percent crude protein, not more than 35 percent crude fiber, including other material such as straw, woodshavings, or acceptable bedding materials, and not more than 20 percent ash.
Undried processed animal waste product is composed of excreta, with or without the litter, from poultry, ruminants, or any other animal except humans, which may or may not include other feed ingredients, and which contains in excess of 15 percent feed ingredients, and which contains in excess of 15 percent moisture. It shall contain no more than 30 percent combined wood, woodshavings, litter, dirt, sand, rocks, and similar extraneous materials.
After reading this list of ingredients for the first time and not really believing that such ingredients could be used in pet food, I sent a fax to the chair of the AAFCO to inquire. "Would the 'Feed Ingredient Definitions' apply to pet food as well as livestock feed?" The reply was as follows, "The feed ingredient definitions approved by the AAFCO apply to all animal feeds, including pet foods, unless specific animal species restrictions are noted."
If a pet food lists "meat by-products" on the label, remember that this is the material that usually comes from the slaughterhouse industry or dead stock removal operations, classified as condemned or contaminated, unfit for human consumption. Meat meal, meat and bone meal, digests, and tankage (specifically animal tissue including bones and exclusive of hair, hoofs, horns, and contents of digestive tract) are composed of rendered material. The label need not state what the composition of this material is, as each batch rendered would consist of a different material. These are the sources of protein that we are feeding our companion animals.
In 1996 I decided to find out the cost of this "quality" material that the pet food companies purchase from the rendering facilities. Aware that a phone call from an ordinary citizen would not elicit the information I required, I set about forming my own independent pet food company. Stating that my company was about to begin producing quality pet food, I asked for a price quote on meat by-products and meat meal from a Canadian rendering company and from a U.S. rendering company. Both facilities I contacted were more than pleased to provide this information. As I was just a small company and did not require that much material to begin production, the cost was higher than it would have been for one of the large multinationals. Meat and bone meal, with a content of a minimum of 50 percent protein, 12 percent fat, 8 percent moisture, 8 percent calcium, 4 percent phosphorus, and 30 percent ash, could be purchased by me, a small independent company for less than 12¢ (Canadian) a pound. As for the meat by-products the prices varied:. liver sold at 21¢ per pound, veal at 22¢ per pound, and lungs for only 12¢ per pound.
The main ingredient in dry food for dogs and cats is corn. However, on further investigation, I found that according to the AAFCO, the list is lengthy as to the corn products that can be used in pet food. These include, but are not limited to the following ingredients.
Corn four is the fine-size hard flinty portions of ground corn containing little or none of the bran or germ.
Corn bran is the outer coating of the corn kernel, with little or none of the starchy part of the germ.
Corn gluten meal is the dried residue from corn after the removal of the larger part of the starch and germ, and the separation of the bran by the process employed in the wet milling manufacture of corn starch or syrup, or by enzymatic treatment of the endosperm.
Wheat is a constituent found in many pet foods. Again the AAFCO gives descriptive terms for wheat products.
Wheat flour consists principally of wheat flour together with fine particles of wheat bran, wheat germ, and the offal from the "tail of the mill." Tail of the mill is nothing more then the sweepings of leftovers after everything has been processed from the week.
Wheat germ meal consists chiefly of wheat germ together with some bran and middlings or shorts.
Wheat middlings and shorts are also categorized as the fine particles of wheat germ, bran, flour and offal from the "tail of the mill."
Both corn and wheat are usually the first ingredients listed on both dry dog and cat food labels. If they are not the first ingredients, they are the second and third that together make up most of the sources of protein in that particular product. Perhaps the pet food industry is not aware that cats are carnivores and therefore should derive their protein from meat, not grains?
In 1995 one large pet food company, located in California, recalled $20 million worth of its dog food. This food was found to contain vomitoxin. Vomitoxin is formed when grains become wet and moldy. This toxin was found in "wheat screenings" used in the pet food. The FDA did investigate but not out of concern for the more than 250 dogs that became ill after ingesting this food. It investigated because of concerns for human health. The contaminated wheat screenings were the end product of wheat flour that would be used in the making of pasta. Wheat for baking flour requires a higher quality of wheat. Wheat screenings, which are not used for human consumption, can include broken grains, crop and weed seeds, hulls, chaff, joints, straw, elevator or mill dust, sand, and dirt.
Fat is usually the second ingredient listed on the pet food labels. Fats can be sprayed directly on the food or mixed with the other ingredients. Fats give off a pungent odor that entices your pet to eat the garbage. These fats are sourced from restaurant grease. This oil is rancid and unfit for human consumption. One of the main sources of fat comes from the rendering plant. This is obtained from the tissues of mammals and/or poultry in the commercial process of rendering or extracting.
An article in Petted Industry magazine does not indicate concern about the impurities in this rendered material as it relates to pet food. Dr. Tim Phillips writes, "Impurities could be small particles of fiber, hair, hide, bone, soil or polyethylene. Or they could be dirt or metal particles picked up after processing (during storage and/or transport). Impurities can cause clogging problems in fat handling screens, nozzles, etc. and contribute to the build-up of sludge in storage tanks."
Other tasty ingredients that can be added to commercial pet food include:
Beet pulp is the dried residue from sugar beet, added for fiber, but primarily sugar.
Soybean meal is the product obtained by grinding the flakes that remain after the removal of most of the oil from soybeans by a solvent extraction process.
Powdered cellulose is purified, mechanically disintegrated cellulose prepared by processing alpha cellulose obtained as a pulp from fibrous plant material. In other words, sawdust.
Sugar foods by-products result from the grinding and mixing of inedible portions derived from the preparation and packaging of sugar-based food products such as candy, dry packaged drinks, dried gelatin mixes, and similar food products that are largely composed of sugar.
Ground almond and peanut shells are used as another source of fiber.
Fish is a source of protein. If you own a cat, just open a can of food that contains fish and watch kitty come running. The parts used are fish heads, tails, fins, bones, and viscera. R.L. Wysong, DVM, states that because the entire fish is not used it does not contain many of the fat soluble vitamins, minerals, and omega-3 fatty acids. If, however, the entire fish is used for pet food, oftentimes it is because the fish contains a high level of mercury or other toxin making it unfit for human consumption. Even fish that was canned for human consumption and that has sat on the shelf past the expiration date will be included. Tuna is used in many cat foods because of its strong odor, which cats find irresistible.
In her book The Natural Cat, Anitra Frazier describes the "tuna junkie" as an expression used by veterinarians to describe a cat hooked on tuna. According to Frazier, "The vegetable oil which it is packed in robs the cat's body of vitamin E which can result in a condition called steatitis.'' Symptoms of steatitis include extreme nervousness and severe pain when touched. The lack of vitamin E in the diet causes the nerve endings to become sensitive, and can also induce anemia and heart disease. However, excess levels of vitamin E can be toxic. A veterinarian with an understanding of nutrition should be consulted.
One commercial food that most cats and dogs seem to love are the semi-moist foods. These kibble and burger-shaped concoctions are made to resemble real hamburger. However, according to Wendell O. Belfield and Martin Zucker in their book, How to Have a Healthier Dog, these are one of the most dangerous of all commercial pet foods. They are high in sugar, laced with dyes, additives, and preservatives, and have a shelf life that spans eternity. One pet owner wrote to me explaining that she had fed her cat some of these semi-moist tidbits. The cat became ill shortly after eating them, and even professional carpet cleaners could not remove the red dye from the carpet where her cat had been ill. In his book, Pet Allergies: Remedies for an Epidemic, Alfred Plechner, DVM., writes, "In my opinion, semi-moist foods should be placed in a time capsule to serve as a record of modern technology gone mad." They really are just flavoured playdough.
The pet food industry corrals this material, then mixes, cooks, dries and extrudes the stuff. (Extruding simply means it is pushed through a mold to form the different shapes and to make us think that these so called "chunks" are actually pieces of meat.) Dyes, additives, preservatives are routinely added and they can accumulate in the pet's body. According to the Animal Protection Institute of America newsletter, "Investigative Report on Pet Food, "Ethoxyquin (an antioxidant preservative), was found in dogs' livers and tissue months after it had been removed from their diet."
After processing, the food is practically devoid of any nutritional value. To make up for what is lacking, vitamins, minerals, amino acids, and supplements are dumped into the mix. If the minerals added are unchelated (chelated means minerals will more readily combine with proteins for better absorption), they will pass through the body virtually unused. Most are added as a premix, and if there is a mistake made in the premix, it can throw off the entire balance. Veterinarians Marty Goldstein and Robert Goldstein have stated that the wrong calcium/magnesium ratio can cause neuromuscular problems. As an example, when I had the commercial pet food tested by Mann Laboratories for my court case, most of the minerals showed excess levels.
Well there ya go...some interesting facts on pet food and what it is made up of. The upshot is that as informed consumers you can read the labels and pick what you need for your pet. Recently a friend with a new puppy said "by-products are not too bad..are they?" wellllll here is your answer my friend in the best way I can see to impart that info. For a variety of reasons we make really good treats here...and I think I will ask people to read this blog whenever they ask why the dog treats seem sooo darn good.
Just sayin'.........woof!
Saturday, November 29, 2008
Wednesday, November 19, 2008
President Elect Obama's new dog.
So the USA has a new President in Obama...wonderful!!!
The interesting thing has been the overwhelming response from almost every blogger, infotainment program, newspaper, and anyone else with a minute on their hand weighing in on what KIND of dog is best for the Obama family.
Heck...some countries are even offering their own breeds (for free, Brazil) in the interest of good national relations.
I can't help but wonder a few things...One is that pop culture has now taken over as mainstream news in such a juggernaught of flashing lights and hoopla that we are distracted from other things that are really important.......when the Obama pet takes first queue in a news lineup over what is happening overseas during an earthquake and possible death toll in a collapsed school roof it is more than troubling.
Secondly.....the energy and interest for what will definitely be the "first dog" to the citizens of the US shows what little interest most people have for issues of the day and what can only be described as the fascination and adherance to the closest thing we have to royalty in the Americas. Whom do we admire? Politicians? Celebrities? The famous..the infamous?
Thirdly...although we have been barraged with what Britney and Paris are doing ad nauseum........and can I just gag on a simple oxygen intake everytime I see something on TV that broadcasts what little Dannielynn is eating now that her Mommy Anna Nicole Smith is gone I wonder just how much the "paps' will make on the first pics of said "first dog"........when did a dog get more important than people who move in and around it?!??!?
The only thing I can hope is that the two girls actually learn to be responsible with the animal and do all the necessary chores required....from what I hear about Michelle Obama I think that will probably be the case...she seems to be in touch reality.
Just sayin'..................woof!
The interesting thing has been the overwhelming response from almost every blogger, infotainment program, newspaper, and anyone else with a minute on their hand weighing in on what KIND of dog is best for the Obama family.
Heck...some countries are even offering their own breeds (for free, Brazil) in the interest of good national relations.
I can't help but wonder a few things...One is that pop culture has now taken over as mainstream news in such a juggernaught of flashing lights and hoopla that we are distracted from other things that are really important.......when the Obama pet takes first queue in a news lineup over what is happening overseas during an earthquake and possible death toll in a collapsed school roof it is more than troubling.
Secondly.....the energy and interest for what will definitely be the "first dog" to the citizens of the US shows what little interest most people have for issues of the day and what can only be described as the fascination and adherance to the closest thing we have to royalty in the Americas. Whom do we admire? Politicians? Celebrities? The famous..the infamous?
Thirdly...although we have been barraged with what Britney and Paris are doing ad nauseum........and can I just gag on a simple oxygen intake everytime I see something on TV that broadcasts what little Dannielynn is eating now that her Mommy Anna Nicole Smith is gone I wonder just how much the "paps' will make on the first pics of said "first dog"........when did a dog get more important than people who move in and around it?!??!?
The only thing I can hope is that the two girls actually learn to be responsible with the animal and do all the necessary chores required....from what I hear about Michelle Obama I think that will probably be the case...she seems to be in touch reality.
Just sayin'..................woof!
Saturday, November 15, 2008
Dog harnesses the pros and cons.
Dog harnesses...why do people use them with their pets?
Harnesses, of course, are used in the pulling of sleds and small carriages...other small vehicles.
The benefit of a harness is to distribute weight the weight evenly over the neck, chest, shoulders and haunches of the dog so there is little if any pressure points.
The downside is that in the event of any leash training a harness is not recommended as there is little communication to the dog for which way he/she is to go and when to stop or start. The same holds true to using an extendable leash....the dog feels no instruction if they do not know they are even ON a lead.
I often suggest and will sometimes talk people out of the sale of a harness if it is to be used for a young dog who is learning to walk on the lead.
A regular collar or a "Martingale" collar is what I will usually offer as a good training tool used in tandem with 3 or 4 tips on keeping the dog learning what is expected of them.
Harnesses will not allow for any instruction to pass down from owner to pet if they are unable to FEEL the directions.
Having said that I also do not sell the typical harnesses at Woofles and Meowz as they are often ill fitting and will pull and tear the fur around the pet's from legs.
I stock the 3in1 vest harness that is superior to most makes in that it can also be used as the simplest seatbelt in the car...plus it is very comfortable for all dogs and particularily for dogs that are covered in very thick fur like Pomeranians and Sheba Inus.
Coupled with a good collar I also recommend the typical 6 foot lead.
Any questions..please feel free to contact us at our store.
Harnesses, of course, are used in the pulling of sleds and small carriages...other small vehicles.
The benefit of a harness is to distribute weight the weight evenly over the neck, chest, shoulders and haunches of the dog so there is little if any pressure points.
The downside is that in the event of any leash training a harness is not recommended as there is little communication to the dog for which way he/she is to go and when to stop or start. The same holds true to using an extendable leash....the dog feels no instruction if they do not know they are even ON a lead.
I often suggest and will sometimes talk people out of the sale of a harness if it is to be used for a young dog who is learning to walk on the lead.
A regular collar or a "Martingale" collar is what I will usually offer as a good training tool used in tandem with 3 or 4 tips on keeping the dog learning what is expected of them.
Harnesses will not allow for any instruction to pass down from owner to pet if they are unable to FEEL the directions.
Having said that I also do not sell the typical harnesses at Woofles and Meowz as they are often ill fitting and will pull and tear the fur around the pet's from legs.
I stock the 3in1 vest harness that is superior to most makes in that it can also be used as the simplest seatbelt in the car...plus it is very comfortable for all dogs and particularily for dogs that are covered in very thick fur like Pomeranians and Sheba Inus.
Coupled with a good collar I also recommend the typical 6 foot lead.
Any questions..please feel free to contact us at our store.
Wednesday, November 5, 2008
Pet nutrition, vitamins and why!
Many people who come into Woofles and Meowz ask for advice when it comes to nutrition for their pets and we try to give as best as we can however I know enough that I don't know everything.
What we DO know though is what hundreds upon hundreds of pet owners tell us when buying our organic treats that we make here in the store. We modify our recipes with regard to what people are needing and wanting for their dog and cat and have created a good line of treats that our four footed friends can eat with satisfaction and benefit.
There are some very interesting facts that have arisen in the very short past that I think are all linked to good pet health:
Dogs in urban area are much less healthy than their country counterparts.
Cats who eat the odd mouse and bird have far fewer digestion problems than those who have their food placed out in a food bowl everyday.
"Working dogs" who never have the opportunity to DO any kind of work or exercise will almost without fail experience a sort of auto-immune histamine reaction to particular foods usually starting with wheat proteins then chicken then....well its never ending.
Often these problems are treated by well meaning but clueless Vets with antibiotics which in most cases freaks out the dog's digestive system.
An animal that is given a varied diet with a balance of bacteria in all the right ways will be able to process food much better that those pets who have very nucleated diets.
Meat, vegetables, whole grains and low sugar and salt is the way to go with any dogs diet...sounds familiar does it not?!?!?
Sometimes people ask me about vitamins...like they are the be all sure cure for what is a poor diet.
When trace minerals are deficient in our food and water, the body's defense systems cannot function properly. Likewise, animals lacking proper amounts of copper, iron, selenium, and others, have been found to be much more likely to develop diseases and have shorter lifespans. Most animals are usually prescribed drugs, specifically antibiotics and vitamins, at times when they are ill. However, antibiotics kill all germs and rarely discriminate between good and bad germs. When the 'good' germs are constantly assaulted by antibiotics, the 'bad' germs can become super-germs which may then become impervious to drugs. Keeping the immune system healthy in the first place can vastly reduce the need for constant antibiotic treatment. Indeed, antibiotics are only indicated when the body cannot naturally fight against bacteria, not simply when you have a cold but are healthy enough to fight it off. Vitamins help to fortify the immune system and also control the body's appropriation of minerals. However, if there are no vitamins and no trace minerals, the body has no ability to use the vitamins to help fight disease and therefore the vitamins are useless. It is for that reason that replacing lost minerals in both your diet and your pet's diet is essential.Our pets need vitamins and minerals. Just like for us, vitamins and minerals are very important nutrients. In today’s environment, they may need them more than we had originally thought as current diets rob us of much beneficial nutrients. Vitamins perform many important functions for our pets. If your pets depend on canned or dried food, it may be necessary to consider supplementing their diet with vitamins and minerals.
...not to mention a big dose of vegetables. Our pets too live in a polluted world full of toxic chemicals. Besides, they live closer to the ground, closer to pollutants that emanate from synthetic carpets, or to cleaning solvents used on the floor, or to the herbicides and pesticides sprayed in the yard. Indeed, lawn fertilizers have been shown to increase the chance of disease in dogs that play on sprayed lawns.Pets eat highly processed food, possibly the most highly processed on the planet. Often the ingredients are of questionable origin. Though since the debacle of the Chinese food suppliers most food manufacturers have really stepped up their game especially in the Cat and Dog food arena. ........though....would you eat dog or cat food? Many pet foods are loaded with chemicals. Such as artificial colors that make the food look pretty to your eyes. Some of them are banned in other countries. It seems plausible that some pets are sensitive to such chemicals. The food may look good to you but it may be causing grief for your animal. Did you know that advertising claims of "complete and balanced" pet diets are based on uncertain minimum nutritional requirements designed for maintenance of barely adequate health, not optimum health? Also it is hardly comforting to know that many vitamins and minerals are lost in the processing or are simply missing to begin with.Vitamins are classified into 2 main groups: Fat soluble and water soluble. Vitamins A, D, E and K are fat soluble dissolved in fats. A is the skin vitamin. D is for healthy bones and teeth. E is the antioxidant vitamin and K is the blood clotting vitamin. Liver is an excellent food source for all these vitamins. Unfortunately you need to ensure adequate vitamin intake to stay healthy long term. The B vitamin group and vitamin C are water soluble. This means that they are easily lost through cooking and processing. However overdosing is not as big a concern as it is with the fat soluble vitamins. The problem is they flush out of your system regularly, so adequate intake is imperative.The B family of vitamins is for healthy muscle, skin and blood. Vitamin C, the stress, antioxidant vitamin is a popular vitamin for us humans. Carnivores can make their own vitamin C but lately it is believed that they may not be making enough especially in stressful situations. Again liver and kidney are good food sources for pets. This does not mean liver flavor though!How would we suspect a vitamin deficiency in your pet? Your dog or cat will show us the signs. For example: poor skin and hair coat when deficient in vitamins A and / or B; Your pet will be anemic and constantly tired if deficient in vitamin B; and will have cancer and heart problems if deficient in vitamin D. Hopefully, you buy your animal a premium quality food: food that has no preservatives and artificial colors. You also may share some nutritious extras with your pet, things like carrots, broccoli, whole grain rice, oatmeal, and yogurt. If you want to improve your pet's health you need to provide better than adequate nutrition. That means more than what is available in those bags of pet food. You need to fortify your animal's diet with extra vitamins and minerals......and veggies!
That will help strengthen your pet internally so it can fight off the effects of contaminants and stress. Supplementation may also help your pet compensate for possible genetic defects that are becoming increasingly common, particularly among pure breed dogs and cats. Animal breeders supplement their animals with vitamin and mineral supplements. They will tell you that pet food is not enough to protect animals or enable them to achieve optimal health. Well-meaning pet owners who supplement their animals' diets may, in fact, be helping them very little, and possibly causing problems. This is because many pet supplements contain low-quality vitamins and potentially allergenic ingredients such as brewer's yeast and artificial flavors and dyes.Minerals are vital to digestion, growth, repair of tissues, to strong bones, teeth, claws, skin and hair coat. Major minerals such as calcium, magnesium, iron and potassium are often present in supplements, but often enough, trace minerals are often lacking. Yet they are equally important to our pets. Most pet supplements also lack vitamin C because dogs and cats, as do most mammals, produce their own vitamin C internally. However, dogs and cats are minimal producers compared to other animals. Vitamin C performs many critical tasks in your pets body. It is a natural pain reliever and detoxifier. It is a major antioxidant and contributor to immune function. And it plays a major role in the building of collagen, the connective tissue that literally holds the body together. It is, therefore, vital to your pet. Ensure adequate intake of vitamin c for your animal. You should consult your veterinarian on the most appropriate vitamin supplement for your pet and the recommended doses of the vitamins and minerals it needs, as each pet is a bit different. Now...be careful when it comes to going to your Vet for nutritional advice as most Vet's I know are seriously lacking in that regard. Not to say all Vets know very little about nutrition but many don't so try to do some research yourself. there is alot of info out there online and through other websites and blogs, chat rooms and pet forums. Always check out what has worked for other pet owners first and good luck!
WOOF!
What we DO know though is what hundreds upon hundreds of pet owners tell us when buying our organic treats that we make here in the store. We modify our recipes with regard to what people are needing and wanting for their dog and cat and have created a good line of treats that our four footed friends can eat with satisfaction and benefit.
There are some very interesting facts that have arisen in the very short past that I think are all linked to good pet health:
Dogs in urban area are much less healthy than their country counterparts.
Cats who eat the odd mouse and bird have far fewer digestion problems than those who have their food placed out in a food bowl everyday.
"Working dogs" who never have the opportunity to DO any kind of work or exercise will almost without fail experience a sort of auto-immune histamine reaction to particular foods usually starting with wheat proteins then chicken then....well its never ending.
Often these problems are treated by well meaning but clueless Vets with antibiotics which in most cases freaks out the dog's digestive system.
An animal that is given a varied diet with a balance of bacteria in all the right ways will be able to process food much better that those pets who have very nucleated diets.
Meat, vegetables, whole grains and low sugar and salt is the way to go with any dogs diet...sounds familiar does it not?!?!?
Sometimes people ask me about vitamins...like they are the be all sure cure for what is a poor diet.
When trace minerals are deficient in our food and water, the body's defense systems cannot function properly. Likewise, animals lacking proper amounts of copper, iron, selenium, and others, have been found to be much more likely to develop diseases and have shorter lifespans. Most animals are usually prescribed drugs, specifically antibiotics and vitamins, at times when they are ill. However, antibiotics kill all germs and rarely discriminate between good and bad germs. When the 'good' germs are constantly assaulted by antibiotics, the 'bad' germs can become super-germs which may then become impervious to drugs. Keeping the immune system healthy in the first place can vastly reduce the need for constant antibiotic treatment. Indeed, antibiotics are only indicated when the body cannot naturally fight against bacteria, not simply when you have a cold but are healthy enough to fight it off. Vitamins help to fortify the immune system and also control the body's appropriation of minerals. However, if there are no vitamins and no trace minerals, the body has no ability to use the vitamins to help fight disease and therefore the vitamins are useless. It is for that reason that replacing lost minerals in both your diet and your pet's diet is essential.Our pets need vitamins and minerals. Just like for us, vitamins and minerals are very important nutrients. In today’s environment, they may need them more than we had originally thought as current diets rob us of much beneficial nutrients. Vitamins perform many important functions for our pets. If your pets depend on canned or dried food, it may be necessary to consider supplementing their diet with vitamins and minerals.
...not to mention a big dose of vegetables. Our pets too live in a polluted world full of toxic chemicals. Besides, they live closer to the ground, closer to pollutants that emanate from synthetic carpets, or to cleaning solvents used on the floor, or to the herbicides and pesticides sprayed in the yard. Indeed, lawn fertilizers have been shown to increase the chance of disease in dogs that play on sprayed lawns.Pets eat highly processed food, possibly the most highly processed on the planet. Often the ingredients are of questionable origin. Though since the debacle of the Chinese food suppliers most food manufacturers have really stepped up their game especially in the Cat and Dog food arena. ........though....would you eat dog or cat food? Many pet foods are loaded with chemicals. Such as artificial colors that make the food look pretty to your eyes. Some of them are banned in other countries. It seems plausible that some pets are sensitive to such chemicals. The food may look good to you but it may be causing grief for your animal. Did you know that advertising claims of "complete and balanced" pet diets are based on uncertain minimum nutritional requirements designed for maintenance of barely adequate health, not optimum health? Also it is hardly comforting to know that many vitamins and minerals are lost in the processing or are simply missing to begin with.Vitamins are classified into 2 main groups: Fat soluble and water soluble. Vitamins A, D, E and K are fat soluble dissolved in fats. A is the skin vitamin. D is for healthy bones and teeth. E is the antioxidant vitamin and K is the blood clotting vitamin. Liver is an excellent food source for all these vitamins. Unfortunately you need to ensure adequate vitamin intake to stay healthy long term. The B vitamin group and vitamin C are water soluble. This means that they are easily lost through cooking and processing. However overdosing is not as big a concern as it is with the fat soluble vitamins. The problem is they flush out of your system regularly, so adequate intake is imperative.The B family of vitamins is for healthy muscle, skin and blood. Vitamin C, the stress, antioxidant vitamin is a popular vitamin for us humans. Carnivores can make their own vitamin C but lately it is believed that they may not be making enough especially in stressful situations. Again liver and kidney are good food sources for pets. This does not mean liver flavor though!How would we suspect a vitamin deficiency in your pet? Your dog or cat will show us the signs. For example: poor skin and hair coat when deficient in vitamins A and / or B; Your pet will be anemic and constantly tired if deficient in vitamin B; and will have cancer and heart problems if deficient in vitamin D. Hopefully, you buy your animal a premium quality food: food that has no preservatives and artificial colors. You also may share some nutritious extras with your pet, things like carrots, broccoli, whole grain rice, oatmeal, and yogurt. If you want to improve your pet's health you need to provide better than adequate nutrition. That means more than what is available in those bags of pet food. You need to fortify your animal's diet with extra vitamins and minerals......and veggies!
That will help strengthen your pet internally so it can fight off the effects of contaminants and stress. Supplementation may also help your pet compensate for possible genetic defects that are becoming increasingly common, particularly among pure breed dogs and cats. Animal breeders supplement their animals with vitamin and mineral supplements. They will tell you that pet food is not enough to protect animals or enable them to achieve optimal health. Well-meaning pet owners who supplement their animals' diets may, in fact, be helping them very little, and possibly causing problems. This is because many pet supplements contain low-quality vitamins and potentially allergenic ingredients such as brewer's yeast and artificial flavors and dyes.Minerals are vital to digestion, growth, repair of tissues, to strong bones, teeth, claws, skin and hair coat. Major minerals such as calcium, magnesium, iron and potassium are often present in supplements, but often enough, trace minerals are often lacking. Yet they are equally important to our pets. Most pet supplements also lack vitamin C because dogs and cats, as do most mammals, produce their own vitamin C internally. However, dogs and cats are minimal producers compared to other animals. Vitamin C performs many critical tasks in your pets body. It is a natural pain reliever and detoxifier. It is a major antioxidant and contributor to immune function. And it plays a major role in the building of collagen, the connective tissue that literally holds the body together. It is, therefore, vital to your pet. Ensure adequate intake of vitamin c for your animal. You should consult your veterinarian on the most appropriate vitamin supplement for your pet and the recommended doses of the vitamins and minerals it needs, as each pet is a bit different. Now...be careful when it comes to going to your Vet for nutritional advice as most Vet's I know are seriously lacking in that regard. Not to say all Vets know very little about nutrition but many don't so try to do some research yourself. there is alot of info out there online and through other websites and blogs, chat rooms and pet forums. Always check out what has worked for other pet owners first and good luck!
WOOF!
Saturday, November 1, 2008
Christmas dog accessories. Doggy Santa.
Ok so Halloween is over..Madonna has left the building and the prospect of the Holiday season looms like a cloudbank over yonder ridge! (I heard that somewhere and always wanted to use the term "yonder")
Christmas is coming to Woofles and Meowz and THIS year we have even more doggy santa hats, kitty reindeer antlers and pet stockings aaaalllllll in readiness for the season of "ho-ho-ho".
Here in the caboose on Granville island we dont have a huge anount of room but we tend to have waaaayyy more than most other pet boutique stores and more than most simple pet stores. Our buyers are very good when it comes to the cool stuff!
Pet stockings for santa to fill up are gonna be popular as well as the usual santa hats and reindeer antlers (lighted or non)...anything for the pooch or kitty to look silly for the camera.
My dogs used to wear the Santa hats all day. I think because they were warmer and who does not get a wee thrill or smile when we see the white trimmed red hat on anyone!
THIS year though...and you can thank me anytime, I am NOT putting up the Christmas decorations or merchandise until waaaaay into November. This habit of retailors putting up the Christmas bling either slightly before or right after halloween is silly. I mean, I GET it...the news is all about how some retailers are betting on using their "new again" lay-a-way plans or plan on putting everything on sale right away..............ummmmmm here is the advice of one store owner to those who do that.
"Buy good stuff to begin with and mark it up only fairly..then you wont be stuck with it come January 1st"...right?!?!??!?
As I only have less than 400 sq feet in the caboose I have to have only that stuff that is demanded, requested and tried and true.
Santa hats and stockings will be gone by December 20th......yay. Come on by and say you saw this blog and get 20% off any Item up to Christmas of 2008.
HO-HO-HO!!!!
Christmas is coming to Woofles and Meowz and THIS year we have even more doggy santa hats, kitty reindeer antlers and pet stockings aaaalllllll in readiness for the season of "ho-ho-ho".
Here in the caboose on Granville island we dont have a huge anount of room but we tend to have waaaayyy more than most other pet boutique stores and more than most simple pet stores. Our buyers are very good when it comes to the cool stuff!
Pet stockings for santa to fill up are gonna be popular as well as the usual santa hats and reindeer antlers (lighted or non)...anything for the pooch or kitty to look silly for the camera.
My dogs used to wear the Santa hats all day. I think because they were warmer and who does not get a wee thrill or smile when we see the white trimmed red hat on anyone!
THIS year though...and you can thank me anytime, I am NOT putting up the Christmas decorations or merchandise until waaaaay into November. This habit of retailors putting up the Christmas bling either slightly before or right after halloween is silly. I mean, I GET it...the news is all about how some retailers are betting on using their "new again" lay-a-way plans or plan on putting everything on sale right away..............ummmmmm here is the advice of one store owner to those who do that.
"Buy good stuff to begin with and mark it up only fairly..then you wont be stuck with it come January 1st"...right?!?!??!?
As I only have less than 400 sq feet in the caboose I have to have only that stuff that is demanded, requested and tried and true.
Santa hats and stockings will be gone by December 20th......yay. Come on by and say you saw this blog and get 20% off any Item up to Christmas of 2008.
HO-HO-HO!!!!
Cat Safety in Vancouver
As I usually get dogs and their owners shopping in Woofles and Meowz for varous dog treats, dog toys or equipment but there is a good number of people here for what the "Meowz" part can provide.
Cat toys, catnip, treats etc are all here but I sometimes get accused of pandering to the Woofles especially in the advice or help arena so the following is a good 40 tips on cat safety that is a followup to the pet safety tips on a previous blog...all the best!
MEOW!!!
1. You know your cat. If she's acting strange, err on the side of caution: Take her to the vet.
2. Antifreeze is sweet but deadly. If your car leaks, get it fixed, and keep antifreeze far out of reach from your pets. Even one teaspoonful is fatal.
3. Do not underestimate your cat; it can fall out of a window, says Pat Coughlin, a cat owner in Norway. Install protective screens or storm windows to let your cat safely enjoy the view.
4. If your cat tends to chew electrical cords, keep her in a cord-free room when unsupervised, says Larry Lachman, an animal behaviorist in Carmel, Calif. Also, spray cords with safe spicy or bitter-tasting products.
5. If you use clumping litter, groom your cat frequently to remove particles that may accumulate and interfere with elimination.
6. Keep your cats indoors. They'll be healthier and happier, says Ceridwen Attwood, a cat owner in Washington. Outside they're exposed to other animals, risk getting run over by cars and are exposed to the elements.
7. Do not let in strays just for the heck of it, Lachman says. Having strange cats around can overstress your own cat, which may lead to fighting, biting and soiling or spraying around the home.
8. Never hit your cat. Use spray bottles with water if discipline is necessary. Physical punishment doesn't teach your cat appropriate behavior.
9. Consider using clay litter for kittens. If your cat accidentally ingests some litter particles, clay is nontoxic in small quantities.
10. Safely confine your cat when workmen or visitors are in your home [to prevent escape], Lachman says. A bathroom, laundry room, bedroom or cat carrier is ideal for this purpose.
11. Only use cat-specific flea preventives in vet-approved dosages to avoid triggering a dangerous reaction in your cat or kitten.
12. If at all possible, get your cat first, then add a dog to the household, not the other way around, Lachman says. This may reduce fighting over territories.
13. When introducing a kitten to your household, provide food, water, a litterbox, scratching post, bed and toys, and confine your kitten to a safe room (a bathroom or spare bedroom) for the first few days, and any time you cannot directly supervise him. A pheromone diffuser in this safe room can help keep a cat calm.
14. Keep all yarn, string, thread and needles in a secure cabinet. Yarn or string can become caught on a cats barbed tongue and may be swallowed.
15. Don't give cows milk to kittens or adult cats because it may cause gas and diarrhea.
16. Certain human foods and medicines are extremely harmful to cats. Do not leave chocolate, onions or medicines out on counters, Lachman says.
17. Keep your cats identification tag or microchip information current in case your cat wanders away.
18. Train your cat to stay away from the stove at all times, even if not in use, by squirting him with a spray bottle when he gets too close.
19. Do not feed your cat dog food. Cats require different nutrients and more protein in their diets than dogs do.
20. Do not attempt to pick up your cat when he shows signs of defensiveness or aggression. Although your cat adores you, he may still bite or scratch you out of fear.
21. Kittens love to explore, so block their access to the area behind the refrigerator, bookcase or couch so they won't get stuck or injured.
22. Before starting your engine, honk your car horn to scare away any cats sleeping in the engine compartment.
23. Gently handle your kitten on a regular basis to socialize her and prevent behavior problems associated with lack of contact.
24. Do not leave a cat or kitten [unsupervised] with a child under age 7, Lachman says. Kids under age 7 have poor impulse control and can accidentally or intentionally hurt the cat.
25. Cats will make a plaything out of any item, so keep blind cords out of your cats reach to avoid strangulation.
26. With your veterinarians guidance, assemble a kitty first-aid kit and keep this on hand for emergencies.
27. Never leave an iron, hot or cold, sitting on an ironing board. The cord may look like a toy to your kitten and she could pull the iron down on herself.
28. Although cats enjoy playing with the plastic ring from milk jugs, these can be chewed apart and swallowed very easily, says Scott Ransom, a cat owner in Oregon. [My] cat [was] in intensive care for a week once because of this mistake.
29. Cats love moving water, so keep the toilet lid closed to prevent drowning.
30. Don't give cats medicines that aren't intended for cats, says Rosalie Marley, a veteran animal shelter worker in Nebraska. Aspirin, ibuprofen and acetaminophen can be deadly.
31. Keep the clothes dryer and dishwasher shut when not in use. Check inside these appliances before using. Cats love to hide in warm, dark places, but these appliances are fatal when in use.
32. When you pick up your cat, support his chest and legs so he feels safe and does not struggle. This protects you from scratches and bites, too.
33. Some plants are poisonous to cats, Coughlin says. The ASPCA website has a list of toxic and nontoxic plants.
34. Always check your cats whereabouts before closing drawers, closets or doors to avoid accidentally locking your cat in.
35. Your cat can be a danger to smaller pets such as reptiles, fish, birds and rodents. Keep your cat away from other pets when unsupervised.
36. When adding a second cat or kitten to your household, clear his health by your vet prior to bringing him home, so you do not expose your first cat to possible illness.
37. Check your garage door before closing it, to avoid injuring any cats perched there.
38. Install baby locks on cabinets where you keep bug spray, household cleaners or medicines. Your smart cat may learn how to open cupboard doors!
39. Invest in covered wastebaskets and garbage cans for your home to prevent cats from finding dangerous items such as chicken bones or dental floss.
40. Always use a carrier when transporting your cat. Even if your cat loves car rides, she may get underfoot or escape if startled.
Cat toys, catnip, treats etc are all here but I sometimes get accused of pandering to the Woofles especially in the advice or help arena so the following is a good 40 tips on cat safety that is a followup to the pet safety tips on a previous blog...all the best!
MEOW!!!
1. You know your cat. If she's acting strange, err on the side of caution: Take her to the vet.
2. Antifreeze is sweet but deadly. If your car leaks, get it fixed, and keep antifreeze far out of reach from your pets. Even one teaspoonful is fatal.
3. Do not underestimate your cat; it can fall out of a window, says Pat Coughlin, a cat owner in Norway. Install protective screens or storm windows to let your cat safely enjoy the view.
4. If your cat tends to chew electrical cords, keep her in a cord-free room when unsupervised, says Larry Lachman, an animal behaviorist in Carmel, Calif. Also, spray cords with safe spicy or bitter-tasting products.
5. If you use clumping litter, groom your cat frequently to remove particles that may accumulate and interfere with elimination.
6. Keep your cats indoors. They'll be healthier and happier, says Ceridwen Attwood, a cat owner in Washington. Outside they're exposed to other animals, risk getting run over by cars and are exposed to the elements.
7. Do not let in strays just for the heck of it, Lachman says. Having strange cats around can overstress your own cat, which may lead to fighting, biting and soiling or spraying around the home.
8. Never hit your cat. Use spray bottles with water if discipline is necessary. Physical punishment doesn't teach your cat appropriate behavior.
9. Consider using clay litter for kittens. If your cat accidentally ingests some litter particles, clay is nontoxic in small quantities.
10. Safely confine your cat when workmen or visitors are in your home [to prevent escape], Lachman says. A bathroom, laundry room, bedroom or cat carrier is ideal for this purpose.
11. Only use cat-specific flea preventives in vet-approved dosages to avoid triggering a dangerous reaction in your cat or kitten.
12. If at all possible, get your cat first, then add a dog to the household, not the other way around, Lachman says. This may reduce fighting over territories.
13. When introducing a kitten to your household, provide food, water, a litterbox, scratching post, bed and toys, and confine your kitten to a safe room (a bathroom or spare bedroom) for the first few days, and any time you cannot directly supervise him. A pheromone diffuser in this safe room can help keep a cat calm.
14. Keep all yarn, string, thread and needles in a secure cabinet. Yarn or string can become caught on a cats barbed tongue and may be swallowed.
15. Don't give cows milk to kittens or adult cats because it may cause gas and diarrhea.
16. Certain human foods and medicines are extremely harmful to cats. Do not leave chocolate, onions or medicines out on counters, Lachman says.
17. Keep your cats identification tag or microchip information current in case your cat wanders away.
18. Train your cat to stay away from the stove at all times, even if not in use, by squirting him with a spray bottle when he gets too close.
19. Do not feed your cat dog food. Cats require different nutrients and more protein in their diets than dogs do.
20. Do not attempt to pick up your cat when he shows signs of defensiveness or aggression. Although your cat adores you, he may still bite or scratch you out of fear.
21. Kittens love to explore, so block their access to the area behind the refrigerator, bookcase or couch so they won't get stuck or injured.
22. Before starting your engine, honk your car horn to scare away any cats sleeping in the engine compartment.
23. Gently handle your kitten on a regular basis to socialize her and prevent behavior problems associated with lack of contact.
24. Do not leave a cat or kitten [unsupervised] with a child under age 7, Lachman says. Kids under age 7 have poor impulse control and can accidentally or intentionally hurt the cat.
25. Cats will make a plaything out of any item, so keep blind cords out of your cats reach to avoid strangulation.
26. With your veterinarians guidance, assemble a kitty first-aid kit and keep this on hand for emergencies.
27. Never leave an iron, hot or cold, sitting on an ironing board. The cord may look like a toy to your kitten and she could pull the iron down on herself.
28. Although cats enjoy playing with the plastic ring from milk jugs, these can be chewed apart and swallowed very easily, says Scott Ransom, a cat owner in Oregon. [My] cat [was] in intensive care for a week once because of this mistake.
29. Cats love moving water, so keep the toilet lid closed to prevent drowning.
30. Don't give cats medicines that aren't intended for cats, says Rosalie Marley, a veteran animal shelter worker in Nebraska. Aspirin, ibuprofen and acetaminophen can be deadly.
31. Keep the clothes dryer and dishwasher shut when not in use. Check inside these appliances before using. Cats love to hide in warm, dark places, but these appliances are fatal when in use.
32. When you pick up your cat, support his chest and legs so he feels safe and does not struggle. This protects you from scratches and bites, too.
33. Some plants are poisonous to cats, Coughlin says. The ASPCA website has a list of toxic and nontoxic plants.
34. Always check your cats whereabouts before closing drawers, closets or doors to avoid accidentally locking your cat in.
35. Your cat can be a danger to smaller pets such as reptiles, fish, birds and rodents. Keep your cat away from other pets when unsupervised.
36. When adding a second cat or kitten to your household, clear his health by your vet prior to bringing him home, so you do not expose your first cat to possible illness.
37. Check your garage door before closing it, to avoid injuring any cats perched there.
38. Install baby locks on cabinets where you keep bug spray, household cleaners or medicines. Your smart cat may learn how to open cupboard doors!
39. Invest in covered wastebaskets and garbage cans for your home to prevent cats from finding dangerous items such as chicken bones or dental floss.
40. Always use a carrier when transporting your cat. Even if your cat loves car rides, she may get underfoot or escape if startled.
Madonna in Vancouver
Well a BIG thanks to Madonna and her crew who flew into town to do a concert at GM place on October 30th.
It was a great show (not her best...the Girlie Show rocked) but as this was a Vancouver gig it was great not to have to travel.
The best part though is that almost EVERYONE in the store has been happy-go-lucky concert attendees.
I have the Madonna tunes rockin' and the conversation is flowing..."oh you paid how much for your tickets??".
Lots of people are in from Edmonton, Calgary, Winnipeg, Victoria etc and I send out a big thanks to those who extended their stay enough to stop by Woofles and Meowz here on Granville Island.
Everyone seems to be in a good mood and getting cool stuff that they may not be able to at home.
For those who stopped by a big thankyou goes out to all you groovin people and I invite you to stop by www.yelp.com and do up a review of any place you may have stopped by while you are here.
Thanks Madonna!
It was a great show (not her best...the Girlie Show rocked) but as this was a Vancouver gig it was great not to have to travel.
The best part though is that almost EVERYONE in the store has been happy-go-lucky concert attendees.
I have the Madonna tunes rockin' and the conversation is flowing..."oh you paid how much for your tickets??".
Lots of people are in from Edmonton, Calgary, Winnipeg, Victoria etc and I send out a big thanks to those who extended their stay enough to stop by Woofles and Meowz here on Granville Island.
Everyone seems to be in a good mood and getting cool stuff that they may not be able to at home.
For those who stopped by a big thankyou goes out to all you groovin people and I invite you to stop by www.yelp.com and do up a review of any place you may have stopped by while you are here.
Thanks Madonna!
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