Well, folks they are here and FLYING out the door..literally. The dog costumes are so freaking funny and this year we at Woofles and Meowz have a great but quickly diminishing supply of:
The dinosaur
The Skunk
the Witch
The witche's hat with hair attached hanging underneath
The spider
The pig
...of course the HOTDOG outfit...too freakin' funny
The tuxedo outfit
The Lion
The convict...
......all too funny and all sizes being purchased.....come and get'em!
Showing posts with label Woofles and meowz pet safety pet peeves. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Woofles and meowz pet safety pet peeves. Show all posts
Thursday, October 8, 2009
Thursday, September 10, 2009
Woofles and Meowz Pet Bakery and LOV magazine
Recently we(well, me) here at the store were approached to do some editorial work for Living Out Magazine. (www.lovmag.com)
This magazine was looking for some insight into the Vancouver pet scene from someone on the inside and I try to do them justice in that arena. Check out the September issue entitled "A DOG BY ANY OTHER NAME".
It's a commentary on mixed breed dogs, purebreeds and the benefits of both.
In the next month we will talk about all the FUN of Halloween with your favourite four footed friend....stay tuned!
This magazine was looking for some insight into the Vancouver pet scene from someone on the inside and I try to do them justice in that arena. Check out the September issue entitled "A DOG BY ANY OTHER NAME".
It's a commentary on mixed breed dogs, purebreeds and the benefits of both.
In the next month we will talk about all the FUN of Halloween with your favourite four footed friend....stay tuned!
Thursday, September 3, 2009
Cat grass..whats the deal.
This is something that almost all cat owners ask themselves, and a question which nobody, including vets, have a clear answer to. However, one thing is certain - grazing is something that comes naturally, not just to domestic cats but also to feral and wild cats.
Eating grass isn't for the nutritional value. Grass is pretty indigestible to cats, and low in nourishment anyway. Grass is mainly fibre and the cat's stomach doesn't have the enzyme needed to digest it. However, grass can help a cat's digestive process by inducing regurgitation of undigested matter. For example, feral cats might nibble on grass blades between mouse snacks. From a cat's point of view a dead mouse is a fiddly thing, and it is impossible for the cat to septe fur and bones from the meat. Therefore the cat gulps down the entire mouse. Once the meat has been digested the hair and bones remain in the cat's stomach. Eating grass makes the cat vomit, and this brings the grass back up, now neatly wrapped around undigested mouse parts. This is probably safer for the cat than passing spiky little bones through its intestines, which might get punctured or blocked.
Domestic cats, especially exclusively indoor cats, will seldom have the chance to digest live prey (your ankles don't count). But even these cats still will nibble on grass if it is provided - and it should be. Remember that cats groom themselves extensively, and their tongues are equipped with little hooks which scoop up loose hair. However, the disadvantage of this is that cats end up swallowing a considerable proportion of the hair they lick off their coats. Hair is not digestible and it can bundle up in the stomach to create a furball. Eating grass may aid in removing the furballs through vomiting before they become unmanageable. A furball on the carpet is no-one's favourite sight, but it is infinitely better than a blockage in the intestines which is painful and traumatic for human and cat and often needs surgical intervention to remove.
Those who make a profession of watching wild cats have noted that when prey is killed and ingested, the first bit of the carcass to be eaten is the intestine. The explanation often given for this is that the intestines contain lots of nutrients needed for good health. That may be also partially true for grass. Although mainly an indigestible fibre lacking almost everything the cat needs in its diet, grass does have a lot of moisture, some trace minerals and the vitamins A and D. Grass also contains chlorophyll, which before the discovery of antibiotics, was a remedy for pain, infection, ulcers, skin diseases, and anemia. Cats, like most other animals, are very skilled in controlling their needs for particular nutrients and finding healthy diet supplements, some of which can come from grass.
Finally, cats may nibble on grass blades for the same reason as country yokels do it. It is quite palatable, and they may enjoy the taste.
Some cat owners make the mistake of preventing their cat from eating grass. There are various reasons for this, one being that it makes their cat vomit. Since most cats make sicking up their stomach contents a major dramatic production, it is hard for the distressed human to understand that eating grass is done precisely to achieve this effect. It is actually highly advisable that cats have access to grass. Many florists and pet stores now offer grass in pots or as seeds which you can grow indoors. Outdoor cats will probably choose the garden lawn as their grass snack bar, so make sure that the grass does not have weed killers or other pesticides which might be harmful. Indeed it may be safer to have grass available in the house even if your cats are outdoor cats, so they have a source of healthy grass.
For whatever reason, or combination of reasons, cats like eating grass. If the cat can't get grass she may try your house plants for taste instead. This could be dangerous because some house plants and flowers are toxic to cats, whilst other sources of fibre, including fabric and wiring are also likely to case distress to human and cat alike. At the same time if a cat starts bingeing on grass followed by frequent vomiting, it is definitely time to consult the vet.
Eating grass isn't for the nutritional value. Grass is pretty indigestible to cats, and low in nourishment anyway. Grass is mainly fibre and the cat's stomach doesn't have the enzyme needed to digest it. However, grass can help a cat's digestive process by inducing regurgitation of undigested matter. For example, feral cats might nibble on grass blades between mouse snacks. From a cat's point of view a dead mouse is a fiddly thing, and it is impossible for the cat to septe fur and bones from the meat. Therefore the cat gulps down the entire mouse. Once the meat has been digested the hair and bones remain in the cat's stomach. Eating grass makes the cat vomit, and this brings the grass back up, now neatly wrapped around undigested mouse parts. This is probably safer for the cat than passing spiky little bones through its intestines, which might get punctured or blocked.
Domestic cats, especially exclusively indoor cats, will seldom have the chance to digest live prey (your ankles don't count). But even these cats still will nibble on grass if it is provided - and it should be. Remember that cats groom themselves extensively, and their tongues are equipped with little hooks which scoop up loose hair. However, the disadvantage of this is that cats end up swallowing a considerable proportion of the hair they lick off their coats. Hair is not digestible and it can bundle up in the stomach to create a furball. Eating grass may aid in removing the furballs through vomiting before they become unmanageable. A furball on the carpet is no-one's favourite sight, but it is infinitely better than a blockage in the intestines which is painful and traumatic for human and cat and often needs surgical intervention to remove.
Those who make a profession of watching wild cats have noted that when prey is killed and ingested, the first bit of the carcass to be eaten is the intestine. The explanation often given for this is that the intestines contain lots of nutrients needed for good health. That may be also partially true for grass. Although mainly an indigestible fibre lacking almost everything the cat needs in its diet, grass does have a lot of moisture, some trace minerals and the vitamins A and D. Grass also contains chlorophyll, which before the discovery of antibiotics, was a remedy for pain, infection, ulcers, skin diseases, and anemia. Cats, like most other animals, are very skilled in controlling their needs for particular nutrients and finding healthy diet supplements, some of which can come from grass.
Finally, cats may nibble on grass blades for the same reason as country yokels do it. It is quite palatable, and they may enjoy the taste.
Some cat owners make the mistake of preventing their cat from eating grass. There are various reasons for this, one being that it makes their cat vomit. Since most cats make sicking up their stomach contents a major dramatic production, it is hard for the distressed human to understand that eating grass is done precisely to achieve this effect. It is actually highly advisable that cats have access to grass. Many florists and pet stores now offer grass in pots or as seeds which you can grow indoors. Outdoor cats will probably choose the garden lawn as their grass snack bar, so make sure that the grass does not have weed killers or other pesticides which might be harmful. Indeed it may be safer to have grass available in the house even if your cats are outdoor cats, so they have a source of healthy grass.
For whatever reason, or combination of reasons, cats like eating grass. If the cat can't get grass she may try your house plants for taste instead. This could be dangerous because some house plants and flowers are toxic to cats, whilst other sources of fibre, including fabric and wiring are also likely to case distress to human and cat alike. At the same time if a cat starts bingeing on grass followed by frequent vomiting, it is definitely time to consult the vet.
Tuesday, August 18, 2009
Martingale Dog collars and the benefits of good equipment.
Recently a woman came into the store here at Woofles and Meowz and was browsing our selection of "soft" harnesses.
I asked her what type of dog she had, after a quick info shpiel on the benefits of using that particular type of harness, and why she was wanting a harness.
She said that she was presently using a strap harness on her 3 month old dog and I asked her why she wanted a soft harness...."I dunno" she shrugged with a wry smile.
"Ok what is the concern with the other harness?" I asked her with a knowing smile.
"I dunno..I just don't like it" was her response.
"Do you prefer a harness over a collar?"
"I'm not sure" she gave with a bit of a flip of the head.
*sigh*
".............ok, well, harnesses don't work as well as a collar with walking on a lead" I started
"but it CHOKES!"she blurted.
".............um...............yes.....to a point...........that..............it how................the dog...........learns that you ..........want...........them to mind you" was all I could get out as she scowled at me.
Needless to say the rest of the exchange was less than productive though I did try to explain that I would like her to know that I often talk people out of buying items that I think they would not use or need to use............she would have none of it though as there was a bit of a quietly defensive nature I was dealing with so I just let it go. Sometimes you just have to do this.
Now, at this point I knew it was a lost cause....this type of person was the same type that I used to see in dog class who would refrain from doing ANY kind of behaviour control and WONDER why their dog was so misbehaved.
The blog could go on for several more paragraphs on the proper exchange of intent in teaching dogs but in this blog I would like to focus on one thing that she was sorrowly lacking besides good sense and that is good equipment.
Harnesses while great for some things are NOT great for teaching proper lead control and sitting, staying techniques.
As harnesses distribute weight throughout a larger area the dog is uncertain to what you need he/she to do when a simple,short,twitch is used to correct behaviour.
We are NOT talking about choking or mangling a dog's neck we are talking about getting their attention.
A MARTINGALE collar is a great tool in this regard for a few reasons...one is that it gives a gentle squeeze to the dog when and only when the dog pulls excessively.
Two is that it does the same thing when a a quick jerk of the lead is used and it releases immediately.
Three is that the chained kind rather than the "soft" Martingale gives a clicking feel and noise that indicates after a while not to pull.
********
Martingale Dog collars are also known as Greyhound, Whippet or humane choke collars. The Martingale dog collar was designed for Sighthounds because their necks are larger than their heads and they can often slip out of buckle collars. These collars have gained popularity among other breed owners in the recent past with many trainers now recommending them instead of choke chains or buckle collars.
Martingale Dog Collars are fitted to the exact size of the dog's neck when the collar is pulled closed. Properly fitted, the collar will be comfortably loose when not in use. When the Martingale control loop is pulled, the two slides (hardware on the small control loop of the Martingale Collar) should pull close together but the two slides should never touch otherwise the squeezing is not effective.
THIS is what the woman should have been using on her dog but somewhere, somehow, someone told her that her pooch should not have anything around its neck....that it was a bad idea. She was ans is ill informed and unfortunately will not be able to control her dog as well as she should.
The right tools used in the right manner have always produced results and this is so true with dog equipment as well.
Cheers and WOOF!!!!
I asked her what type of dog she had, after a quick info shpiel on the benefits of using that particular type of harness, and why she was wanting a harness.
She said that she was presently using a strap harness on her 3 month old dog and I asked her why she wanted a soft harness...."I dunno" she shrugged with a wry smile.
"Ok what is the concern with the other harness?" I asked her with a knowing smile.
"I dunno..I just don't like it" was her response.
"Do you prefer a harness over a collar?"
"I'm not sure" she gave with a bit of a flip of the head.
*sigh*
".............ok, well, harnesses don't work as well as a collar with walking on a lead" I started
"but it CHOKES!"she blurted.
".............um...............yes.....to a point...........that..............it how................the dog...........learns that you ..........want...........them to mind you" was all I could get out as she scowled at me.
Needless to say the rest of the exchange was less than productive though I did try to explain that I would like her to know that I often talk people out of buying items that I think they would not use or need to use............she would have none of it though as there was a bit of a quietly defensive nature I was dealing with so I just let it go. Sometimes you just have to do this.
Now, at this point I knew it was a lost cause....this type of person was the same type that I used to see in dog class who would refrain from doing ANY kind of behaviour control and WONDER why their dog was so misbehaved.
The blog could go on for several more paragraphs on the proper exchange of intent in teaching dogs but in this blog I would like to focus on one thing that she was sorrowly lacking besides good sense and that is good equipment.
Harnesses while great for some things are NOT great for teaching proper lead control and sitting, staying techniques.
As harnesses distribute weight throughout a larger area the dog is uncertain to what you need he/she to do when a simple,short,twitch is used to correct behaviour.
We are NOT talking about choking or mangling a dog's neck we are talking about getting their attention.
A MARTINGALE collar is a great tool in this regard for a few reasons...one is that it gives a gentle squeeze to the dog when and only when the dog pulls excessively.
Two is that it does the same thing when a a quick jerk of the lead is used and it releases immediately.
Three is that the chained kind rather than the "soft" Martingale gives a clicking feel and noise that indicates after a while not to pull.
********
Martingale Dog collars are also known as Greyhound, Whippet or humane choke collars. The Martingale dog collar was designed for Sighthounds because their necks are larger than their heads and they can often slip out of buckle collars. These collars have gained popularity among other breed owners in the recent past with many trainers now recommending them instead of choke chains or buckle collars.
Martingale Dog Collars are fitted to the exact size of the dog's neck when the collar is pulled closed. Properly fitted, the collar will be comfortably loose when not in use. When the Martingale control loop is pulled, the two slides (hardware on the small control loop of the Martingale Collar) should pull close together but the two slides should never touch otherwise the squeezing is not effective.
THIS is what the woman should have been using on her dog but somewhere, somehow, someone told her that her pooch should not have anything around its neck....that it was a bad idea. She was ans is ill informed and unfortunately will not be able to control her dog as well as she should.
The right tools used in the right manner have always produced results and this is so true with dog equipment as well.
Cheers and WOOF!!!!
Thursday, July 30, 2009
Keeping your dog cool with Woofles and Meowz
Be a Cool Owner: Don’t Let Your Dog Overheat
Working up a good sweat in the hot summer months may be good for you, but it can lead to heat stroke in your dog and kill him in a matter of minutes. Heat stroke is a dangerous condition that takes the lives of many animals every year. Your dog's normal body temperature is 100.5 to 102.5 degrees Fahrenheit. If it rises to 105 or 106 degrees, the dog is at risk for developing heat exhaustion. If the body temperature rises to 107 degrees, your dog has entered the dangerous zone of heat stroke. With heat stroke, irreversible damage and death can occur. Here are some cold summer facts: The temperature in a parked car can reach 160 degrees in a matter of minutes, even with partially opened windows. And any dog exercising on a hot, humid day, even with plenty of water, can become overheated. Overheating often leads to heat stroke. As a pet owner, you should know the dangers of overheating and what to do to prevent it.
You should also know the signs of heat stroke and what to do if your dog exhibits those signs.When humans overheat we are able to sweat in order to cool down. However, your dog cannot sweat as easily; he must rely on panting to cool down. Dogs breathe in through the nose and out through the mouth, directing the air over the mucous membranes of the tongue, throat and trachea to facilitate cooling by evaporation of fluid. Your dog also dissipates heat by dilation of the blood vessels in the surface of the skin in the face, ears and feet. When these mechanisms are overwhelmed, hyperthermia and heat stroke usually develop.Dogs who have a thick coat, heart and lung problems or a short muzzle are at greater risk for heat stroke. Others at risk include
Puppies up to 6 months of age
Large dogs over 7 years of age and small dogs over 14 years
Overweight dogs
Dogs who are overexerted
Ill dogs or those on medication
Brachycephalic dogs (short, wide heads) like pugs, English bulldogs and Boston terriers
Dogs with cardiovascular disease and/or poor circulationWhat To Watch For If your dog is overheating, he will appear sluggish and unresponsive. He may appear disorientated. The gums, tongue and conjunctiva of the eyes may be bright red and he will probably be panting hard. He may even start vomiting. Eventually he will collapse, seizure and may go into a coma.If your dog exhibits any of these signs, treat it as an emergency and call your veterinarian immediately. On the way to your veterinary hospital, you can cool your pet with wet towels, spray with cool water from a hose or by providing ice chips for your dog to chew (providing he is conscious). Veterinary Care Heat related illness is typically diagnosed based on physical exam findings and a recent history that could result in overheating. Your veterinarian may perform various blood tests to assess the extent of vital organ dysfunction caused by overheating. Intensity of treatment depends upon the cause and severity of the heat illness.
Mildly increased temperature (less than 105°F) may only require rest, a fan to increase air circulation, fresh water to drink and careful observation.
Markedly increased temperature (greater than 106°F) must be treated more aggressively. Cooling can be promoted externally by immersion in cool water or internally by administering a cool water enema.
Underlying aggravating conditions, such as upper airway obstructive diseases, heart disease, lung disease and dehydration may be treated with appropriate medications, supplemental oxygen or fluid therapy.Home Care Heat stroke is a life-threatening emergency. Check your dog's temperature rectally if you suspect heat stroke. If it is over 105 degrees F, remove your dog from the heat source immediately and call your veterinarian. Meanwhile, place a cool, wet towel over your dog or place him in a cool bath. Do not use ice because it may cause skin injury. Spraying with water from a garden hose also works well.
always...always carry water with you on super hot days like it is in Vancouver this past few weeks...its important for both you and your dog...
WOOF!!
Working up a good sweat in the hot summer months may be good for you, but it can lead to heat stroke in your dog and kill him in a matter of minutes. Heat stroke is a dangerous condition that takes the lives of many animals every year. Your dog's normal body temperature is 100.5 to 102.5 degrees Fahrenheit. If it rises to 105 or 106 degrees, the dog is at risk for developing heat exhaustion. If the body temperature rises to 107 degrees, your dog has entered the dangerous zone of heat stroke. With heat stroke, irreversible damage and death can occur. Here are some cold summer facts: The temperature in a parked car can reach 160 degrees in a matter of minutes, even with partially opened windows. And any dog exercising on a hot, humid day, even with plenty of water, can become overheated. Overheating often leads to heat stroke. As a pet owner, you should know the dangers of overheating and what to do to prevent it.
You should also know the signs of heat stroke and what to do if your dog exhibits those signs.When humans overheat we are able to sweat in order to cool down. However, your dog cannot sweat as easily; he must rely on panting to cool down. Dogs breathe in through the nose and out through the mouth, directing the air over the mucous membranes of the tongue, throat and trachea to facilitate cooling by evaporation of fluid. Your dog also dissipates heat by dilation of the blood vessels in the surface of the skin in the face, ears and feet. When these mechanisms are overwhelmed, hyperthermia and heat stroke usually develop.Dogs who have a thick coat, heart and lung problems or a short muzzle are at greater risk for heat stroke. Others at risk include
Puppies up to 6 months of age
Large dogs over 7 years of age and small dogs over 14 years
Overweight dogs
Dogs who are overexerted
Ill dogs or those on medication
Brachycephalic dogs (short, wide heads) like pugs, English bulldogs and Boston terriers
Dogs with cardiovascular disease and/or poor circulationWhat To Watch For If your dog is overheating, he will appear sluggish and unresponsive. He may appear disorientated. The gums, tongue and conjunctiva of the eyes may be bright red and he will probably be panting hard. He may even start vomiting. Eventually he will collapse, seizure and may go into a coma.If your dog exhibits any of these signs, treat it as an emergency and call your veterinarian immediately. On the way to your veterinary hospital, you can cool your pet with wet towels, spray with cool water from a hose or by providing ice chips for your dog to chew (providing he is conscious). Veterinary Care Heat related illness is typically diagnosed based on physical exam findings and a recent history that could result in overheating. Your veterinarian may perform various blood tests to assess the extent of vital organ dysfunction caused by overheating. Intensity of treatment depends upon the cause and severity of the heat illness.
Mildly increased temperature (less than 105°F) may only require rest, a fan to increase air circulation, fresh water to drink and careful observation.
Markedly increased temperature (greater than 106°F) must be treated more aggressively. Cooling can be promoted externally by immersion in cool water or internally by administering a cool water enema.
Underlying aggravating conditions, such as upper airway obstructive diseases, heart disease, lung disease and dehydration may be treated with appropriate medications, supplemental oxygen or fluid therapy.Home Care Heat stroke is a life-threatening emergency. Check your dog's temperature rectally if you suspect heat stroke. If it is over 105 degrees F, remove your dog from the heat source immediately and call your veterinarian. Meanwhile, place a cool, wet towel over your dog or place him in a cool bath. Do not use ice because it may cause skin injury. Spraying with water from a garden hose also works well.
always...always carry water with you on super hot days like it is in Vancouver this past few weeks...its important for both you and your dog...
WOOF!!
Thursday, May 28, 2009
Cat harnesses and clothes....why bother?!?
At Woofles and Meowz we spend alot of time chatting with other trainers, handlers and owners of dogs but the only interaction I have with Cat owners is to listen to what they like in the way of treats, equipment and toys so I can order for my store. In fact all the stock in my store for Cats is requested by my regulars who have 100% say in what I bring in. It makes my job a wee bit easier.
The oft asked question I get on one piece of equipment for cats is.."will my cat wear this?"
I always respond half jokingly........"what do YOU think?"
This usually gets the answer most people were looking for as the REAL question in the query is "will my cat take off my skin if I try to cram him into this $60.00 sweater and can you tell me that he will wear it having never seen my cat so to support my intent to torment my feline into wearing something even for the 5 minutes it will take to get the picture"
.....pretty much the truth in that.
"what do YOU think" always settles the matter.
This also goes for people who want to put Fluffy in a harness and go for a walk. Some will find it ok and most will not. The trick for harnesses is to put them on when they are kittens. It always seems far too foreign for older cats.
Bless all the little kitties in their own furry sweaters.
meowwwrrrrwwrwrw!
The oft asked question I get on one piece of equipment for cats is.."will my cat wear this?"
I always respond half jokingly........"what do YOU think?"
This usually gets the answer most people were looking for as the REAL question in the query is "will my cat take off my skin if I try to cram him into this $60.00 sweater and can you tell me that he will wear it having never seen my cat so to support my intent to torment my feline into wearing something even for the 5 minutes it will take to get the picture"
.....pretty much the truth in that.
"what do YOU think" always settles the matter.
This also goes for people who want to put Fluffy in a harness and go for a walk. Some will find it ok and most will not. The trick for harnesses is to put them on when they are kittens. It always seems far too foreign for older cats.
Bless all the little kitties in their own furry sweaters.
meowwwrrrrwwrwrw!
Pet safety..keeping your dog and cat safe.
We have all heard the stories of the dog that was left in a car without adequate ventelation or the cat locked in the metal shed in the intense heat and the prevention of such scenes seems pretty easy to implement. Even easier than that is the simple remembering of water.
Last weekend we were riding on a warm, sunny day out at the Iona spit near the airport here in Vancouver and we came across a gentleman with his dog that looked like a cross between a Corgi and a small Shepherd. Lots of fur and short legs on the trip out to the end of the spit (which is 4 kilometers long) saw to it that the dog was pooped and panting to the point of alarm...and there was still the 4 kilometers back. The distance did not seem to daunting for the owner or us who were lucky to have bikes but the dog was seriously in need of some relief. Lucky for me I have a thoughtful partner who after asking if it was ok gave the dog a drink from his water bottle (so thinking this man IS, I have to say)
It seemed like a simple thing but the truth is that all animals need some water on a hot day. We carry at Woofles and Meowz a great selection of water bottles that make it super easy for Fido to have a wee drink when in need............simple right?!??
Last weekend we were riding on a warm, sunny day out at the Iona spit near the airport here in Vancouver and we came across a gentleman with his dog that looked like a cross between a Corgi and a small Shepherd. Lots of fur and short legs on the trip out to the end of the spit (which is 4 kilometers long) saw to it that the dog was pooped and panting to the point of alarm...and there was still the 4 kilometers back. The distance did not seem to daunting for the owner or us who were lucky to have bikes but the dog was seriously in need of some relief. Lucky for me I have a thoughtful partner who after asking if it was ok gave the dog a drink from his water bottle (so thinking this man IS, I have to say)
It seemed like a simple thing but the truth is that all animals need some water on a hot day. We carry at Woofles and Meowz a great selection of water bottles that make it super easy for Fido to have a wee drink when in need............simple right?!??
Thursday, April 16, 2009
Spaying and neutering your animals.
Recently I was reading in the "Bark" magazine that the BCSPCA puts out and it was explaining some reasons and facts on animal reproduction.
I particularly like the simple math equation that says :
At two litters a year and six kittens per litter an unspayed cat can produce in seven years....wait for it......420,000 cats!!!
I am all for taking care of your animals and if still undecided there are a few question and answers that the American humane society was very happy to answer:
WHAT IS IT??
Spaying is a general term used to describe the ovariohysterectomy of a female animal. Neutering is a general term used to describe the castration of a male animal. However, neutering is used in reference to both genders. The surgical procedure, performed by a veterinarian, renders the animal incapable of reproducing. Here are answers to some questions you may have about this beneficial procedure.
When can I have this procedure done?
Both procedures can be performed as early as six weeks of age. American Humane is a strong proponet of "early" neutering since this guarantees that the animals will not be able to breed and populate within a community.
Why should I have my pet neutered?
Animal shelters, both public and private, unfortunately are faced with an incredible burden: What to do with the overpopulation of dogs and cats that they cannot find homes for. Estimates across the country indicate that over 10 million animals will be humanely euthanized at shelters each year, due to the sheer fact that there are not enough homes. Having your pet neutered ensures that you will not be adding to this tremendous burden.
What are some of the health benefits?
Through neutering, you can help your dog and cat live a happier, healthier, and longer life. Spaying eliminates the constant crying and nervous pacing that is a sign that a cat is in heat. Castration stops the mating drive in males, reducing the urge to roam, which in turn, reduces the risk of fights, injury, poisoning, accidents, and contracting diseases. If you have more than one pet in your household, all the pets will get along better if they are neutered.
A long-term benefit of neutering is improved health. Early neutering nearly eliminates breast cancer, and totally prevents uterine infections and uterine and testicular cancer.
Isn't it true that you only need to "fix" female dogs or cats?
Absolutely not! A male animal can father thousands of offspring in his lifetime. Roaming tomcats fighting other cats are a neighborhood nuisance and are prone to develop infections and abscesses from their fighting. An intact male may also develop the bad habit of marking its territory by urine marking.
Neutering just costs too much!
The cost of caring for a pet, including providing veterinary care, should be considered before acquiring an animal. If you would like to provide a good home for a pet, but cannot pay for the neuter, call your local animal shelter. They will be happy to provide information on low-cost neutering. The costs of having a litter are often more than the cost of neutering. There could be complications requiring hospitalization or surgery. You will be faced with finding homes or keeping the offspring yourself or placing more animals into your local shelter. The cost of the well-being of not just your companion animal but of future generations should be considered.
Can't I allow my purebred dog to have just one litter?
Mixed breed or purebred -- there just aren't enough homes. Animal shelters receive purebred animals everyday. Responsible purebred breeders have homes for their dogs before they are born.
I don't even own a pet! Why is this my problem?
All of us are affected by animal overpopulation. Millions of tax dollars are spent annually to round up lost, abandoned, and unwanted pets. Much of that money is spent to destroy these animals when homes cannot be found. Health is threatened by the danger of transmittable diseases, including rabies, animal bites, and attacks. Property may be damaged and livestock killed when pets roam in search of food. Animal waste, proving a serious environment hazard, foul yards and parks. It is only when all of us assume the responsibility for pet overpopulation that we will see any decrease in the problem.
Isn't it wrong to deprive an animal of the natural right to reproduce?
No, it's wrong to allow these animals to reproduce millions of unwanted offspring that are eventually killed because there aren't enough responsible homes.
If I find homes for my pets' litters then I won't contribute to the problem, right?
Wrong. Only a certain number of people want pets. So every home you find for your pet's offspring takes away a home from a loving animal already at a shelter.
Shouldn't every female pet have at least one litter before being spayed?
No. In fact, your pet will be healthier if she never sexually matures. Her personality will not improve either. She is just as likely to become less social and more aggressive after having a litter, as she is to become calmer and gentler.
Shouldn't children experience the miracle of birth?
No. A more important lesson to teach your child would be responsible pet ownership and concern for life by explaining why their pet should not have babies.
Doesn't neutering alter an animal's personality?
No. Personality changes that may result from neutering are for the better. Not being distracted by the instinctual need to find a mate helps your pet stop roaming and become calmer; though not less protective of their territory.
Won't animal shelters take care of the surplus animals?
No. Shelters do their best to place animals in loving homes, but the number of homeless animals far exceeds the number of available homes. This leaves many loving and healthy animals in our community that must be euthanized as the only humane solution to this tragic dilemma. Only spaying and neutering can end the overpopulation problem.
I think there are probably many more questions but if in need please feel free to contact your local SPCA.
WOOF!!!!
I particularly like the simple math equation that says :
At two litters a year and six kittens per litter an unspayed cat can produce in seven years....wait for it......420,000 cats!!!
I am all for taking care of your animals and if still undecided there are a few question and answers that the American humane society was very happy to answer:
WHAT IS IT??
Spaying is a general term used to describe the ovariohysterectomy of a female animal. Neutering is a general term used to describe the castration of a male animal. However, neutering is used in reference to both genders. The surgical procedure, performed by a veterinarian, renders the animal incapable of reproducing. Here are answers to some questions you may have about this beneficial procedure.
When can I have this procedure done?
Both procedures can be performed as early as six weeks of age. American Humane is a strong proponet of "early" neutering since this guarantees that the animals will not be able to breed and populate within a community.
Why should I have my pet neutered?
Animal shelters, both public and private, unfortunately are faced with an incredible burden: What to do with the overpopulation of dogs and cats that they cannot find homes for. Estimates across the country indicate that over 10 million animals will be humanely euthanized at shelters each year, due to the sheer fact that there are not enough homes. Having your pet neutered ensures that you will not be adding to this tremendous burden.
What are some of the health benefits?
Through neutering, you can help your dog and cat live a happier, healthier, and longer life. Spaying eliminates the constant crying and nervous pacing that is a sign that a cat is in heat. Castration stops the mating drive in males, reducing the urge to roam, which in turn, reduces the risk of fights, injury, poisoning, accidents, and contracting diseases. If you have more than one pet in your household, all the pets will get along better if they are neutered.
A long-term benefit of neutering is improved health. Early neutering nearly eliminates breast cancer, and totally prevents uterine infections and uterine and testicular cancer.
Isn't it true that you only need to "fix" female dogs or cats?
Absolutely not! A male animal can father thousands of offspring in his lifetime. Roaming tomcats fighting other cats are a neighborhood nuisance and are prone to develop infections and abscesses from their fighting. An intact male may also develop the bad habit of marking its territory by urine marking.
Neutering just costs too much!
The cost of caring for a pet, including providing veterinary care, should be considered before acquiring an animal. If you would like to provide a good home for a pet, but cannot pay for the neuter, call your local animal shelter. They will be happy to provide information on low-cost neutering. The costs of having a litter are often more than the cost of neutering. There could be complications requiring hospitalization or surgery. You will be faced with finding homes or keeping the offspring yourself or placing more animals into your local shelter. The cost of the well-being of not just your companion animal but of future generations should be considered.
Can't I allow my purebred dog to have just one litter?
Mixed breed or purebred -- there just aren't enough homes. Animal shelters receive purebred animals everyday. Responsible purebred breeders have homes for their dogs before they are born.
I don't even own a pet! Why is this my problem?
All of us are affected by animal overpopulation. Millions of tax dollars are spent annually to round up lost, abandoned, and unwanted pets. Much of that money is spent to destroy these animals when homes cannot be found. Health is threatened by the danger of transmittable diseases, including rabies, animal bites, and attacks. Property may be damaged and livestock killed when pets roam in search of food. Animal waste, proving a serious environment hazard, foul yards and parks. It is only when all of us assume the responsibility for pet overpopulation that we will see any decrease in the problem.
Isn't it wrong to deprive an animal of the natural right to reproduce?
No, it's wrong to allow these animals to reproduce millions of unwanted offspring that are eventually killed because there aren't enough responsible homes.
If I find homes for my pets' litters then I won't contribute to the problem, right?
Wrong. Only a certain number of people want pets. So every home you find for your pet's offspring takes away a home from a loving animal already at a shelter.
Shouldn't every female pet have at least one litter before being spayed?
No. In fact, your pet will be healthier if she never sexually matures. Her personality will not improve either. She is just as likely to become less social and more aggressive after having a litter, as she is to become calmer and gentler.
Shouldn't children experience the miracle of birth?
No. A more important lesson to teach your child would be responsible pet ownership and concern for life by explaining why their pet should not have babies.
Doesn't neutering alter an animal's personality?
No. Personality changes that may result from neutering are for the better. Not being distracted by the instinctual need to find a mate helps your pet stop roaming and become calmer; though not less protective of their territory.
Won't animal shelters take care of the surplus animals?
No. Shelters do their best to place animals in loving homes, but the number of homeless animals far exceeds the number of available homes. This leaves many loving and healthy animals in our community that must be euthanized as the only humane solution to this tragic dilemma. Only spaying and neutering can end the overpopulation problem.
I think there are probably many more questions but if in need please feel free to contact your local SPCA.
WOOF!!!!
Tuesday, June 17, 2008
Pet Peeves at Woofles and Meowz
So I was chatting with a lady in the store a few weeks ago who I saw drive by not 5 minutes earlier with her dog perched on her lap. She came into the store and purchased some treats and a shiny new dog tag that said "princess". She obviously thought much of her dog with its gorgeous t-shirt and perfect grooming.
Except.....and here is the obvious "BUT" in the next sentence. Where was the safety equipment......where was the well being of the dog.....where did the needs of the "Mommy" end and the real needs of the dog start?!?!??
I casually mentioned our best selling "3 in 1" vest harness that we carry that is perfect for taking the pooch in the car. How it is really easy to use and how it saves lives of both doggy and other passengers.
"Oh she won't let me put that on her" was the response.
I waited......said nothing and just looked at the woman. I balanced the probabilities of whether she was just being lazy, stupid or was so entranced by the idea that she be loved by her dog at all costs that the welfare of said dog be damned that I was unusually silent.
Then.........I pulled out the picture of a woman in the operating room with bones of her dog being pulled from her chest as the airbag had pushed her "baby" into her fake boobs popping the inserts and puncturing one lung. The dog died.
Then I gave her a pic of a dog flying out of a half open window as a car made a quick left. The dog died.
Then I showed her the crash results of what a 10 pound projectile will do to the occupants in the event of a crash even at slow speeds. The driver usually suffers neck and head injuries as does the passenger. The pet will usually catch a leg in the steering wheel breaking it or catch itself on the shift lever often resulting in massive internal injuries...and....the dog usually dies.
"Sooooo.how about you lemme try one on your dog" I said. I think she was so grossed out by the pics that she just handed me her ball of fluff with legs.
"There!...easy peezy" I smiled as we watched the cute pink harness run around on the pooch in the store...."no problemo.......will that be cash or charge?"
"Do you take Visa?" she murmered.
"For you I do" I smiled.
I ALMOST felt quilty for what was an obvious and manipulitive manoever but nahhhhh!
She had to learn somehow.
.............now HERE'S the kicker!!!!!! two weeks after the conversation in walks Miss Thing with a broken nose and blacker eyes than Liza on a bender.
"IT WORKS!!! IT WORKS!!!!! THE HARNESS WORKS!" was the scream as she stumbled into the caboose..."Gabby (Gabrielle her dog) was saved!!"
"WOW..thats wonderful...and you just thought I was being an asshole didn't you" I laughed.
..."wellll maybe a little..but THATS OK!!!
"How's the car?" as I remembered it was a gorgeous 3 series beemer.
"Totalled!"
"What happened, girl?...spill!!"
"I slid off the road....they say it was gravel on the offramp" she said in a slowing tempo.
"But you only hurt one thumb from the airbag....Lucky you!!" I gave her.
"Oh I was on the phone".....and as soon as she said it, and looked at me..looking back at her....we both knew........she was indeed.........an idiot that really needed a safety harness for her dog.
A sweet idiot..........with a living dog...but an idiot nevertheless.
I swear if the dog could have given me a "high five" it would have.
True story!
Except.....and here is the obvious "BUT" in the next sentence. Where was the safety equipment......where was the well being of the dog.....where did the needs of the "Mommy" end and the real needs of the dog start?!?!??
I casually mentioned our best selling "3 in 1" vest harness that we carry that is perfect for taking the pooch in the car. How it is really easy to use and how it saves lives of both doggy and other passengers.
"Oh she won't let me put that on her" was the response.
I waited......said nothing and just looked at the woman. I balanced the probabilities of whether she was just being lazy, stupid or was so entranced by the idea that she be loved by her dog at all costs that the welfare of said dog be damned that I was unusually silent.
Then.........I pulled out the picture of a woman in the operating room with bones of her dog being pulled from her chest as the airbag had pushed her "baby" into her fake boobs popping the inserts and puncturing one lung. The dog died.
Then I gave her a pic of a dog flying out of a half open window as a car made a quick left. The dog died.
Then I showed her the crash results of what a 10 pound projectile will do to the occupants in the event of a crash even at slow speeds. The driver usually suffers neck and head injuries as does the passenger. The pet will usually catch a leg in the steering wheel breaking it or catch itself on the shift lever often resulting in massive internal injuries...and....the dog usually dies.
"Sooooo.how about you lemme try one on your dog" I said. I think she was so grossed out by the pics that she just handed me her ball of fluff with legs.
"There!...easy peezy" I smiled as we watched the cute pink harness run around on the pooch in the store...."no problemo.......will that be cash or charge?"
"Do you take Visa?" she murmered.
"For you I do" I smiled.
I ALMOST felt quilty for what was an obvious and manipulitive manoever but nahhhhh!
She had to learn somehow.
.............now HERE'S the kicker!!!!!! two weeks after the conversation in walks Miss Thing with a broken nose and blacker eyes than Liza on a bender.
"IT WORKS!!! IT WORKS!!!!! THE HARNESS WORKS!" was the scream as she stumbled into the caboose..."Gabby (Gabrielle her dog) was saved!!"
"WOW..thats wonderful...and you just thought I was being an asshole didn't you" I laughed.
..."wellll maybe a little..but THATS OK!!!
"How's the car?" as I remembered it was a gorgeous 3 series beemer.
"Totalled!"
"What happened, girl?...spill!!"
"I slid off the road....they say it was gravel on the offramp" she said in a slowing tempo.
"But you only hurt one thumb from the airbag....Lucky you!!" I gave her.
"Oh I was on the phone".....and as soon as she said it, and looked at me..looking back at her....we both knew........she was indeed.........an idiot that really needed a safety harness for her dog.
A sweet idiot..........with a living dog...but an idiot nevertheless.
I swear if the dog could have given me a "high five" it would have.
True story!
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